The Ecobeamer

[moatilliatta]

Well, I was actually bummed that this wasn’t a ecomodded hypermile build..

But redeemed itself into a new direction..

Whats the end goal?

Cage?

I see no reason for those gauges with a Modern DME with Can outputs for a dash.

[hkv]

Well, I was actually bummed that this wasn’t a ecomodded hypermile build..

But redeemed itself into a new direction..

Whats the end goal?

Cage?

I see no reason for those gauges with a Modern DME with Can outputs for a dash.

hypermile eco car would be interesting, upgrade an eta with aero or something haha.

end goal is a quick, good handling, high performance, unique take on a beloved classic. its not going to be a neatly done clean type car. its gonna be a rough, riveted, down to business type build that's loud and exciting. the interior will be a good example of that. im gonna have panels riveted all over.

I originally planned to build a cage and then decided against that in favor of a roll bar and then decided against that too. I will stiffen up the car a bit in some ways but no cage or roll bar planned.

as far as the gauges that's just my preference. a DME is an ECU/ECM right? I see allot of guys here like these racepak digital dashes ect and I had thought about those but decided that I like gauges better. I like the way gauges look, perform and are setup better. Its hard to beat a nice set of gauges but they are doing lcd digital gauge displays allot on motorcycles and I don't deny they are cool just not my choice for this build.

[formyhealth]

Exceptional work! Keep going. Sent from my SM-G973U1 using Tapatalk

[hkv]

Exceptional work! Keep going. Sent from my SM-G973U1 using Tapatalk

thanks bro. im at it every day making progress

[hkv]

busted out the big boi 7" grinder and grinded down these tabs off the subframe for the steering rack. turns out I will still need subframe spacer




used a bottle jack to get a good spreaddd on the tran tunnel



moving on to the driveshaft I replace my worn bandsaw blade with a new one and make sure im getting a nice and square cut

absolutely perfect, that's great

I then cut about 6" from the 5ft tube because the ends are covered in adhesive from packing tape and I don't want to be breathing in those fumes when I weld. stuff wouldn't come off entirely even with a wire wheel. easier to just cut the ends off as I only need about 36" of driveshaft tube.
this weld on yoke flange or whatever its called fit so tight it was challenge to get it on. that's good though because that means is perfectly in line with the tube.


I TIG weld it to the tube which worked out ok. not exactly super happy with the quality of my weld but it will hold. the other side will be much better

[hkv]

heres my torsen diff and I don't have a before pic but when I got it it was pretty rusty and dirty and I cleaned it up good and por-15'd it to get it to look nice


I wire wheel the input flange



jagsthatrun conversion flange and the weld on yoke for the other side of the driveshaft

[hkv]

I drill a tiny hole in the yoke flange to prevent the driveshaft becoming sealed during welding and bursting from the heat. I don't know if it was necessary but ive seen tubes burst open when being welded if they aren't vented so I played it safe


this side didn't turn out to be much nicer but still works




the ecoboost driveshaft is complete :)

[hkv]

now to test it out and see if I did a good job with my measurements



it came out to be something like .75"-1" of the slip yoke out of the tranny. this is a little more than I had shot for but still plenty fine as I don't believe it will be moving much at all




the driveshaft tucks in there real nice and is able to rotate freely






Ive taken measurements of the output slip yoke angle(about 3deg.), the differential input flange angle(about 2 deg.) and the driveshaft(about 5deg.). I don't know how accurate those angles are they are decently accurate but from what I can tell you take the driveshaft angle and subtract the output and input from that and compare to get your u joint angles. that gives me 3degrees and 2 degrees which should be acceptable. not 100% sure though.

[moatilliatta]

I’m in middle of doing a holinger in an E46m.

What I’ve learned.

You want both Trans and Pinion U joints with matching angles. 3* max to 0* optimum.

I had to make new diff bushing set. The stock pinion angle is linked by a 2 piece shaft, which the rear half runs more parallel to the pinion angle. With a 1 piece shaft you now have one plane from pinion to diff, I’m assuming there is more work to be done with setting up the diff angle. IE all the problems people have with just tossing A 1 piece driveshaft of their car..

lucky shifting the trans and engine into position could help optimize the angles.

Enjoying the progress!

[hkv]

I’m in middle of doing a holinger in an E46m.

What I’ve learned.

You want both Trans and Pinion U joints with matching angles. 3* max to 0* optimum.

I had to make new diff bushing set. The stock pinion angle is linked by a 2 piece shaft, which the rear half runs more parallel to the pinion angle. With a 1 piece shaft you now have one plane from pinion to diff, I’m assuming there is more work to be done with setting up the diff angle. IE all the problems people have with just tossing A 1 piece driveshaft of their car..

lucky shifting the trans and engine into position could help optimize the angles.

Enjoying the progress!

dang a holinger, that's really badass. which model did you choose?

and yea once I get a proper angle finder im gonna look into getting the angles set up better because the way they are right now isn't bad from what ive read but I definitely should try and get them to match closer at a good angle. do you know if theres a surface on the diff I can measure pinion angle from when I don't have access to the input flange?

[hkv]

angles aren't actually looking that bad. im just gonna make sure the diff is 2-2.5 degrees and then everything will be good to go as far as that goes






I was fortunate enough that the trans bushing mount ended up being right where the squiggly tunnel crossmember was so I cut it up to turn into a dual purpose crossmember/trans bushing mount. tack welding it was a major pain because the car isn't jacked up much and I didn't want to jack it up because that would mess with the location of the engine and trans. plus I had to hold it in place and I don't have an auto darkening welding hood so that made it even harder. but it came out good, seems to work good.





started taking measurements for the engine mounts but that's about it. Im not sure if I have the steel to make them. ive got 5/16 plate that would be perfect but 5/16 is really thick, might be too overkill.

[moatilliatta]

dang a holinger, that's really badass. which model did you choose?

and yea once I get a proper angle finder im gonna look into getting the angles set up better because the way they are right now isn't bad from what ive read but I definitely should try and get them to match closer at a good angle. do you know if theres a surface on the diff I can measure pinion angle from when I don't have access to the input flange?

Holinger SG3 phumatic.

phone should work. I’ve had good luck with out the case and if it’s repeatable when not on the buttons.

The yokes we’re pretty square, so I got some conformation bouncing off those numbers too.

The Hub of the pinion flange should be flat enough.

[hkv]

so I got the motor mounts figured out pretty good but I need to get my subframe finalized before I weld them. I moved on to test fitting the radiator the intercooler and the airbox and all the associated piping.i don't have a picture of that but I will say its good ive got so much engine bay room because im gonna end up filling it up pretty good. I do have a picture of the radiator shroud with my fan that I riveted to it.



I ended up building the downpipe which was pretty fun and easy. it fits and looks great and I think itll work good. I still need to weld the o2 sensor bung but I was gonna wait a bit to check out how the wiring clears before welding it. plenty of room for an o2 sensor though.

[hkv]

close ups of the welding on the downpipe.







underside pic of the downpipe with vband connection



I got this cool af vibrant titanium muffler and man this thing is so freaking lightweight and well made. nice and ricey

[jeenyus]

This is freakin' cool. Thanks for sharing. your tig skills are pretty damn good too!