This is Photography

[BlackbirdM3]

Black and white stuff is tricky. It does take some effort to process it well. Also, you need to have your exposure spot on. I have a few pics in both color and b/w where the color shot is just eh, but in b/w it really works.







Getting the high contrast for b/w is what really makes it work. If you can't get it, you end up with 30 shades of grey and nothing really makes an impact.

Will

[Wschnitz]

I think a lot of black and white has to do with high contrast to almost create an impact, I've never been a fan of straight up monochrome images, but when I go for the almost high contrast film look, hence my Ilford HP5 comment, or Tri-X would be similar, I like them a lot more.

[Reichart12]

I don't know what it is about b&w. Its not my thing and if I had to pick something specific, I think that it just takes something extra to get a clear subject. Your second photo I like because it is an abstract almost symmetry subject. But anything Ive taken I almost never go b&w because I cant post process it the right way to make it feel impactful.

[Wschnitz]

Really nice! I really want to start taking more portrait photography, to somewhat justify the purchase of an Mamiya RZ67 Pro II.

Took some more black and white sets.

20180420-_MG_6712 by William Snitselaar, on Flickr
20180420-_MG_6680 by William Snitselaar, on Flickr
20180420-_MG_6716 by William Snitselaar, on Flickr
20180420-_MG_6721 by William Snitselaar, on Flickr

You could say Im a fan of Ilford HP5...

[Reichart12]

Big post coming up of some people-centric photos I've taken over the past half year or so.

[mrsleeve]

I gather that its got the cool tone since its all shadow, and your not going to lose that over all just due to the nature of the lighting, but to pull the yellow out more your going to have set your white balance to 4800-5200k and see if you get a little more of what your looking for.

I aggree its all subjective, and I am just trying to come up with a sorta easy way to get where you want to go with out filters. I play with the WB a lot sometimes to get an effect I am looking for. You could play with it in post and see what it does and if you like it try out for next time


Could take a s shot HDR composite for the 1 for what you have and 2 for the chairs and combine in post ?????

[Wschnitz]

Its supposed to pretty blue, I wanted to bring out the yellow in the chairs a bit without blasting it out.

In the end its an Art thing right, so not everyone is going to agree where to push it. Might revisit it if the room is still unlocked next time.

[mrsleeve]

I am not sure what your going for there, but you might try playing with your white balance a little bit to change the mood/effect some. Very blue hue, might try warming it up a little bit to give it a bit more "intimate" feel, unless your looking for that cool look. I think this would be great B/W and maybe recompose some what to lessen the influence of overexposed window on your eye

[Wschnitz]

In love with this scene but cant seem to photograph it how I see it in my head, hoping my film turns out more like what I imagine.

Part of it is the 10-22, although a fun lens to play with, I find trouble using it and enjoying the shots it takes.

20180411-_MG_6056 by William Snitselaar, on Flickr

I also noticed shooting at 200 ISO minimum has somewhat eliminated my sensor striping, kind of annoying that I have to find work arounds in the first place.

Ive also become obsessed with the idea of acquiring a Mamiya RZ67 Medium Format film camera, probably to shoot 120 with, 6x6 or 6x7.

[BlackbirdM3]

Thanks. It was pretty funny. I was shooting 1/200 sec before this and all my shots were out of focus. I got the shutter speed down to 1/60 and suddenly my pics were all in focus, so I kept going slower, and slower. 1/15 was as slow as I could go. I have some more pics I can add later.

Will

[BlackbirdM3]

How slow can you go hand held? Those were all 1/20 sec, aside from the 510, it was 1/15 sec, hand held.

Will

[Wschnitz]

20180406-_MG_5569 by William Snitselaar, on Flickr
20180406-_MG_5797 by William Snitselaar, on Flickr

[Wschnitz]

Advertised focal length on EF-S is same as reality as far as I am aware. I have no reason to believe my 10-22mm isnt actually 10-22 when I can stand a foot away from a wall and still capture the whole building.

[george graves]

Silly noob question. Google has give me two different answers - so has facebook.

True or false? Canon labels their lenses with "EF-S mount" for lenses that are true to their labeled focal length on an aps-c camera. Where as a "EF" means it works on both, but of course with a crop sensor, there is the conversion factor. But my question is really.....this: EF-S means it's advertised focal length, is what it is on an aps-c??? No? Or am I so wrong?

[ALYKZANDYR]

its been a while since I was looking for OM glass to run on my OMD, but IIRC and a quick referance to the site above I think you would get much better results form either the 180 F2 or F2.8 or the 100 F2. They were more upmarket pro line lenses that will give you better color rendering on the modern "Sensor" lol

You want the fancy coatings they help with color rendering, lens flare, and chromatic aberration (though aberration is more the quality of the glass and the precision of the grind) along with glass protection and so on. Muilt coatings are very important on any precision optic from binocs to photo glass to your spectacles, or your sunglasses

Not a prime, but I have the 40-150mm f2.8 Pro for my OMD M5 II and it is lovely.

I also have an OM1 aswell. I got a 200mm OM prime for that last year on ebay for $50.