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  • Northern
    replied
    NAPA of all places was the easiest to order some 1/2" bare steel nuts/washers, so now I wait.

    If this doesn't work, drill baby drill.
    Last edited by Northern; 12-30-2025, 09:42 AM.

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  • Northern
    replied
    Originally posted by MrBurgundy
    I use a bolt extraction kit.

    Essentially drilling into the broken bolt, and tapping in a tapered bit with counterclockwise gripping fins.

    I've never used a washer in that method.

    Straight to the nut.

    If the broken piece is very uneven, you're going to want to drill it down so you can center a hole with some accuracy or the drill is just going to run way to the wall of the hole.

    heat is going to be your best tool here. The welding trick is good one because you now have a hex head again and two the intense heat
    It's cold as shit (outdoors) so heating the block is hard. I also have to lug tools/welder/gas there with me, so that's not ideal either.

    I have like a drawer full of EZ-outs, but I find the best result is when you use the largest one that will fit inside the original stud, so a lot of drilling, and I'm scared to snap a bit/extractor off.(Welder also not super ideal for melting/spatter/fire potential)

    I think I'll buy a big bag of M12 (or whatever SAE equivalent) washers/nuts and spend a day continuing the welding before I give up.
    I think the washers help with the strength of the connection to the snapped stud. Seems to be stronger than I remember when I tried this last time without them.
    I had the best result when I wallowed out the washer hole a little bit, it took a few threads off the stud with it when it snapped, and the weld looked like it had better penetration. Hoping to buy M12 washers this time to emulate that...

    I think it's just very corroded, hoping it's only near the top so it comes out after it gets a few more heat cycles.

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  • 2mAn
    replied
    I’m about to deal with the same sh!t on the Elan… not looking forward to it

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  • roguetoaster
    replied
    Originally posted by mrburgundy
    straight to the nut.
    k

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  • MrBurgundy
    replied
    I use a bolt extraction kit.

    Essentially drilling into the broken bolt, and tapping in a tapered bit with counterclockwise gripping fins.

    I've never used a washer in that method.

    Straight to the nut.

    If the broken piece is very uneven, you're going to want to drill it down so you can center a hole with some accuracy or the drill is just going to run way to the wall of the hole.

    heat is going to be your best tool here. The welding trick is good one because you now have a hex head again and two the intense heat

    Leave a comment:


  • Northern
    replied
    So I've always been shit at extracting snapped off bolts with the welder method...
    I snapped a head bolt on my D2 so I've been trying again using the washer+nut combo and still no dice.

    Anyone have any tips and tricks? I'm about to give up and try drilling it out.

    Leave a comment:


  • varg
    replied
    Originally posted by 2mAn
    That is such an oddball thing... Theres a bunch of those out here, but I think they are electric city things for rich people who live near the beach to take to the grocery store & to the beach
    Yeah they are electric, and common in the extremely wealthy areas along the ocean here as well. They're pretty expensive.

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  • econti
    replied
    Originally posted by 2mAn
    That is such an oddball thing... Theres a bunch of those out here, but I think they are electric city things for rich people who live near the beach to take to the grocery store & to the beach
    There's new Chinese built ones that are a loose approximation. I don't mind them, great for a runaround.

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  • 2mAn
    replied
    That is such an oddball thing... Theres a bunch of those out here, but I think they are electric city things for rich people who live near the beach to take to the grocery store & to the beach

    Leave a comment:


  • econti
    replied
    Been restoring my dad's car over the past year and a bit, finally got it together enough to pass rego inspection. Basically everything was done by me aside from the motor and box as one of his mates wanted to do it as a tribute. It's not perfect but given what I started with it's pretty good. Used as many of the original parts as I could so there's lots of pitting etc. But it is what it is.
    It's a 1979 Leyland Moke, originally brit design but aussie built. Same driveline as a classic Mini.
    He bought it in 1980 and it's done somewhere around 200,000km around Aus.

    https://imgur.com/MFe39d0

    https://imgur.com/EEZZy5Y

    This is the before:


    https://imgur.com/SWvBllF​​

    Can't get the fuckin tags to work just paste the links in
    Last edited by econti; 12-17-2025, 02:18 PM.

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  • DEV0 E30
    replied
    Originally posted by MrBurgundy

    My shit post setup

    Click image for larger version

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    Tell me, how much do clothes cost in the matrix?

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  • MrBurgundy
    replied
    Originally posted by Northern

    Adios turd nuggets

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  • Northern
    replied
    Originally posted by MrBurgundy

    My shit post setup
    Adios turd nuggets

    Leave a comment:


  • Reichart12
    replied
    Originally posted by MrBurgundy

    My shit post setup
    Just needs a catheter hook up and you're set

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  • MrBurgundy
    replied
    Originally posted by Chilezen
    All that and r3v will still load slowly.
    thanks obama

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