Nonsense Thread

[Northern]

Yeah I think he only has 30A across 2 fuses in the garage, so I'm off a 15A plug and a 25ft extension cord (which at least is 12ga.)
I as trying to get as much weld on the washer/stud as possible, basically do two passes around it, fill the nut all the way to the top, then tack it in 3 places to the washers around the perimeter (thinking I didn't want the weld to fail between washer and nut, but I guess it would be better if it failed there and I get the chance to put more heat into it by welding another nut onto it)

I've heard/seen the crayon trick. I'll give it a shot this time.
Hammer tap is a good call, I like that one.

[Panici]

So I've always been shit at extracting snapped off bolts with the welder method...
I snapped a head bolt on my D2 so I've been trying again using the washer+nut combo and still no dice.

Anyone have any tips and tricks? I'm about to give up and try drilling it out.

Weld with the thing cranked to full if it's only a 120v unit.
Heck I usually crank up my 240v MIG unit when dealing with stuck/broken hardware. Get as much heat in there as possible.
Fill the nut completely with weld.


Before it cools down, get some wax (crayon, candle) in the threads. Penetrating fluid will just flash/smoke off so it's no help.

Let it fully cool and contract before you try to loosen it. A few (vertical) taps with a hammer before you start trying to spin it out also doesn't hurt. Try to get some shock into the threads to free them up.

[Northern]

Yeah drilling bolts in general sucks, but once you yield/work harden them from install and then again snapping it off, it's going to be pretty crap to drill if it comes to that.

I taped off the open engine with a garbage bag/duct tape, and threw a random piece of steel sheet over the adjacent cyl. Cleaned everything off with acetone first, but it's too cold for the tape to stick very well... it is what it is. Aluminum tape would at least be more rigid, so I'll give that a shot.
I also should use a welding blanket instead of the garbage bag, but I find that I "save" the blankets because I only own two.
I hate flux core, but using MIG just because it's 120v and easier... Realistically I'm decent with the MIG and pretty bad with TIG lol



Happy New Year!

[varg]

Head bolts are usually pretty high strength hardware, hard to drill. I hope the weld method works. Smear some grease on areas you don't want weld splatter to stick to, cover the bores and other holes with aluminum tape (doesn't burn through when splatter lands on it), use MIG (learned that the hard way, too much porosity when all you have is flux core).

[MrBurgundy]

Godspeed

[Northern]

NAPA of all places was the easiest to order some 1/2" bare steel nuts/washers, so now I wait.

If this doesn't work, drill baby drill.

[Northern]

I use a bolt extraction kit.

Essentially drilling into the broken bolt, and tapping in a tapered bit with counterclockwise gripping fins.

I've never used a washer in that method.

Straight to the nut.

If the broken piece is very uneven, you're going to want to drill it down so you can center a hole with some accuracy or the drill is just going to run way to the wall of the hole.

heat is going to be your best tool here. The welding trick is good one because you now have a hex head again and two the intense heat

It's cold as shit (outdoors) so heating the block is hard. I also have to lug tools/welder/gas there with me, so that's not ideal either.

I have like a drawer full of EZ-outs, but I find the best result is when you use the largest one that will fit inside the original stud, so a lot of drilling, and I'm scared to snap a bit/extractor off.(Welder also not super ideal for melting/spatter/fire potential)

I think I'll buy a big bag of M12 (or whatever SAE equivalent) washers/nuts and spend a day continuing the welding before I give up.
I think the washers help with the strength of the connection to the snapped stud. Seems to be stronger than I remember when I tried this last time without them.
I had the best result when I wallowed out the washer hole a little bit, it took a few threads off the stud with it when it snapped, and the weld looked like it had better penetration. Hoping to buy M12 washers this time to emulate that...

I think it's just very corroded, hoping it's only near the top so it comes out after it gets a few more heat cycles.

[2mAn]

I’m about to deal with the same sh!t on the Elan… not looking forward to it

[roguetoaster]

straight to the nut.

k

[MrBurgundy]

I use a bolt extraction kit.

Essentially drilling into the broken bolt, and tapping in a tapered bit with counterclockwise gripping fins.

I've never used a washer in that method.

Straight to the nut.

If the broken piece is very uneven, you're going to want to drill it down so you can center a hole with some accuracy or the drill is just going to run way to the wall of the hole.

heat is going to be your best tool here. The welding trick is good one because you now have a hex head again and two the intense heat

[Northern]

So I've always been shit at extracting snapped off bolts with the welder method...
I snapped a head bolt on my D2 so I've been trying again using the washer+nut combo and still no dice.

Anyone have any tips and tricks? I'm about to give up and try drilling it out.

[varg]

That is such an oddball thing... Theres a bunch of those out here, but I think they are electric city things for rich people who live near the beach to take to the grocery store & to the beach

Yeah they are electric, and common in the extremely wealthy areas along the ocean here as well. They're pretty expensive.

[econti]

That is such an oddball thing... Theres a bunch of those out here, but I think they are electric city things for rich people who live near the beach to take to the grocery store & to the beach

There's new Chinese built ones that are a loose approximation. I don't mind them, great for a runaround.

[2mAn]

That is such an oddball thing... Theres a bunch of those out here, but I think they are electric city things for rich people who live near the beach to take to the grocery store & to the beach

[econti]

Been restoring my dad's car over the past year and a bit, finally got it together enough to pass rego inspection. Basically everything was done by me aside from the motor and box as one of his mates wanted to do it as a tribute. It's not perfect but given what I started with it's pretty good. Used as many of the original parts as I could so there's lots of pitting etc. But it is what it is.
It's a 1979 Leyland Moke, originally brit design but aussie built. Same driveline as a classic Mini.
He bought it in 1980 and it's done somewhere around 200,000km around Aus.

https://imgur.com/MFe39d0

https://imgur.com/EEZZy5Y

This is the before:

https://imgur.com/SWvBllF

Can't get the fuckin tags to work just paste the links in