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So I've always been shit at extracting snapped off bolts with the welder method...
I snapped a head bolt on my D2 so I've been trying again using the washer+nut combo and still no dice.
Anyone have any tips and tricks? I'm about to give up and try drilling it out.Originally posted by priapismMy girl don't know shit, but she bakes a mean cupcake.Originally posted by shamesonUsually it's best not to know how much money you have into your e30Comment
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I use a bolt extraction kit.
Essentially drilling into the broken bolt, and tapping in a tapered bit with counterclockwise gripping fins.
I've never used a washer in that method.
Straight to the nut.
If the broken piece is very uneven, you're going to want to drill it down so you can center a hole with some accuracy or the drill is just going to run way to the wall of the hole.
heat is going to be your best tool here. The welding trick is good one because you now have a hex head again and two the intense heat
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It's cold as shit (outdoors) so heating the block is hard. I also have to lug tools/welder/gas there with me, so that's not ideal either.I use a bolt extraction kit.
Essentially drilling into the broken bolt, and tapping in a tapered bit with counterclockwise gripping fins.
I've never used a washer in that method.
Straight to the nut.
If the broken piece is very uneven, you're going to want to drill it down so you can center a hole with some accuracy or the drill is just going to run way to the wall of the hole.
heat is going to be your best tool here. The welding trick is good one because you now have a hex head again and two the intense heat
I have like a drawer full of EZ-outs, but I find the best result is when you use the largest one that will fit inside the original stud, so a lot of drilling, and I'm scared to snap a bit/extractor off.(Welder also not super ideal for melting/spatter/fire potential)
I think I'll buy a big bag of M12 (or whatever SAE equivalent) washers/nuts and spend a day continuing the welding before I give up.
I think the washers help with the strength of the connection to the snapped stud. Seems to be stronger than I remember when I tried this last time without them.
I had the best result when I wallowed out the washer hole a little bit, it took a few threads off the stud with it when it snapped, and the weld looked like it had better penetration. Hoping to buy M12 washers this time to emulate that...
I think it's just very corroded, hoping it's only near the top so it comes out after it gets a few more heat cycles.
Originally posted by priapismMy girl don't know shit, but she bakes a mean cupcake.Originally posted by shamesonUsually it's best not to know how much money you have into your e30Comment
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NAPA of all places was the easiest to find some 1/2" bare steel nuts/washers, so now I wait.
If this doesn't work, drill baby drill.Last edited by Northern; 12-30-2025, 09:42 AM.Originally posted by priapismMy girl don't know shit, but she bakes a mean cupcake.Originally posted by shamesonUsually it's best not to know how much money you have into your e30Comment
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Head bolts are usually pretty high strength hardware, hard to drill. I hope the weld method works. Smear some grease on areas you don't want weld splatter to stick to, cover the bores and other holes with aluminum tape (doesn't burn through when splatter lands on it), use MIG (learned that the hard way, too much porosity when all you have is flux core).Comment
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Yeah drilling bolts in general sucks, but once you yield/work harden them from install and then again snapping it off, it's going to be pretty crap to drill if it comes to that.
I taped off the open engine with a garbage bag/duct tape, and threw a random piece of steel sheet over the adjacent cyl. Cleaned everything off with acetone first, but it's too cold for the tape to stick very well... it is what it is. Aluminum tape would at least be more rigid, so I'll give that a shot.
I also should use a welding blanket instead of the garbage bag, but I find that I "save" the blankets because I only own two.
I hate flux core, but using MIG just because it's 120v and easier... Realistically I'm decent with the MIG and pretty bad with TIG lol
Happy New Year!Originally posted by priapismMy girl don't know shit, but she bakes a mean cupcake.Originally posted by shamesonUsually it's best not to know how much money you have into your e30Comment
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Weld with the thing cranked to full if it's only a 120v unit.
Heck I usually crank up my 240v MIG unit when dealing with stuck/broken hardware. Get as much heat in there as possible.
Fill the nut completely with weld.
Before it cools down, get some wax (crayon, candle) in the threads. Penetrating fluid will just flash/smoke off so it's no help.
Let it fully cool and contract before you try to loosen it. A few (vertical) taps with a hammer before you start trying to spin it out also doesn't hurt. Try to get some shock into the threads to free them up.
'87 BMW E30 325is Turbo
'99 BMW E36 M3 - - - '98 BMW E36 328iComment




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