Colorado general chat...

[monkeytaco]

Braking power doesn't change whatsoever. All that changes is the amount of force you have to apply to the master cylinder to displace brake fluid into the calipers. There is no difference in braking performance, only a more FUH RAZE feel with the pedal, and far less modulation ability because of the increased force needed.

Well, way to go all engineer on me. lol

In practical application it feels like I have to put a lot less force on the pedal with the bigger booster to get the same braking with more pedal force on the smaller booster car. Hardly a scientific method, but I like the feel of a pedal that doesn't have 6 inches of full, soft travel.

[Bimmerman325i]

Well, way to go all engineer on me. lol

In practical application it feels like I have to put a lot less force on the pedal with the bigger booster to get the same braking with more pedal force on the smaller booster car. Hardly a scientific method, but I like the feel of a pedal that doesn't have 6 inches of full, soft travel.

Fair enough, but bigger booster and bigger master are totally different. Just realize that all you are changing is pedal feel, not braking power.

[blefevre]

Well, way to go all engineer on me. lol

In practical application it feels like I have to put a lot less force on the pedal with the bigger booster to get the same braking with more pedal force on the smaller booster car. Hardly a scientific method, but I like the feel of a pedal that doesn't have 6 inches of full, soft travel.

Yes, this is exactly what it does. Your braking doesn't get better though.

[Cloudbase]

I just want my brakes to work, especially if I might be trading it.

Cal at Autosport Werks thinks it's my pad compound (PO's shitty pads) because he couldn't get any bleed by when he test drove it, but I sure could on the way to Steamboat.

I'm gonna replace pads and rotors and do my right front wheel bearing. If that doesn't fix it I'm going to buy a new master just to eliminate it completely.

Was thinking M3 master because I might do BBK with tax return money if I can't afford to do the trade. I've heard the UUC is actually good compared to his other stuff. I can't get the Massive site to work on my iPhone.

[blefevre]

I wouldn't spend the money on a BBK personally, but if you do get the Massive kit.

[Bimmerman325i]

I just want my brakes to work, especially if I might be trading it.

Cal at Autosport Werks thinks it's my pad compound (PO's shitty pads) because he couldn't get any bleed by when he test drove it, but I sure could on the way to Steamboat.

I'm gonna replace pads and rotors and do my right front wheel bearing. If that doesn't fix it I'm going to buy a new master just to eliminate it completely.

Was thinking M3 master because I might do BBK with tax return money if I can't afford to do the trade. I've heard the UUC is actually good compared to his other stuff. I can't get the Massive site to work on my iPhone.

Don't get me wrong, I'm a huge proponent of never spending money at UUC.

Their BBK for the E30, along with their exhausts, are the only pieces I'd buy from them. Their BBK actually looks to be a good kit, and has gotten good reviews. I'd still buy from Massive since his products are a bit more in line with my needs and wants, but for a street kit the UUC setup is hard to beat on value. Massive has a 280mm (11") and 300mm (11.75") street kit at $750 and $1050, so the UUC fits in between. Check the brake forum here.

I haven't driven your car to know, but it could very well be a pad compound that outgasses under use, which would cause crap pedal feel and power if you aren't running slotted or drilled rotors. My buddy Garrett had to run el-cheapo autozone or equiv pads in the rear when he killed his HT10s, and he said the experience was incredibly scary with bad feel.

[blefevre]

Alex, you can drive my car with new brakes to see if it's your pad compound.

[blefevre]

Speaking of brakes. I have always been gental on new brakes before doing the proper bed in steps. Is this needed? My rotors are JUST showing signs of wear and was thinking of bedding them in now instead of waiting longer. Thoughts? Ive driven the car two days so far.

[Bimmerman325i]

I thought you are supposed to bed in immediately, that's what i've always done.

[blefevre]

I have always waited for the finish to wear off, EP, MP, BB, zinc, w/e they put on various rotors after machining.

[Bimmerman325i]

That wears off pretty quick, the first couple hard stops while bedding the pads in wears off the coatings, and from there the pads start bedding and all is good.

[Bimmerman325i]

OT: This guy is a massive idiot and has massive titanium balls. 15 sec before race starts, he realizes his helmet is undone, so takes his gloves off, puts helmet on, drives somewhat one-handed while making a blisteringly good start, and then starts putting the gloves back on while slicing and dicing up the field in the rain.

Too much win not to share.

[clarkkey594]

That wears off pretty quick, the first couple hard stops while bedding the pads in wears off the coatings, and from there the pads start bedding and all is good.

I was under this impression as well. And you are supposed to spray off the rotors with brake cleaner before putting the pads on to remove the anti corrosion coating that factories put on the rotors.

[clarkkey594]

OT: This guy is a massive idiot and has massive titanium balls. 15 sec before race starts, he realizes his helmet is undone, so takes his gloves off, puts helmet on, drives somewhat one-handed while making a blisteringly good start, and then starts putting the gloves back on while slicing and dicing up the field in the rain.

Too much win not to share.

Awesome.

[Roland H]

Alex - Willing to bet it's the pad compound. I'm probably available early next week, let me know when you get back from work and we can do your suspension, and take a look at your brakes too.

Brad - I always either bed them in, or use them very aggressively when I first slap them on.

David - Can't watch Videos at work.... :(