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    Well this explains my rough starts all winter.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

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      lil duct tape and you'll be good for another winter...

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        Seth, I have a good used one. Let me know if you are interested, I'll grab it from storage.

        Sent from my 710C using Tapatalk
        1984 Alpina B6 2.8/1 #35
        1991 325i MT2 Touring (JDM bro)
        1991 Racecar (Chase Schmidt's former drift car - M30)
        2006 BMW X3
        2011 Audi A3 - wife's other German car

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          Originally posted by djjerme View Post
          Seth, I have a good used one. Let me know if you are interested, I'll grab it from storage.

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          Thanks, I'm just gonna pick up a new one this weekend.


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            Originally posted by bmwm42 View Post
            we are the ones getting the vacation lol
            Lololol

            Seth, I'll have you a nice new one by the time you're awake tomorrow if you want.
            Autobahn Motorsport - Restoration and Service - Portland, Oregon
            503.967.3800
            '72 2002 pickup | '88 M5 | '89 330is | '89 M3 | '01 Z3M | '11 328xi-t

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              if boots are ripping, you might need motor mounts


              Please leave feedback below, thanks

              http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=358170

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                Originally posted by dereliiict View Post
                Anybody ever used Portland Powder Coating?
                I use metal craft in Salmon Creek


                Please leave feedback below, thanks

                http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=358170

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                  PNW Chit Chat thread

                  Originally posted by Matt-B View Post
                  if boots are ripping, you might need motor mounts


                  I bought the motor mounts brand new from BMW like 3 months ago

                  Boot ripped because it's 30 years old.....

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                    ever try m42 mounts? I hear anything from an m42 never wears out, and there race proven to 1000 bhp on stock internals

                    you should get 1


                    Please leave feedback below, thanks

                    http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=358170

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                      Oh for fuck sakes matt let it die already
                      Originally posted by bmwm42
                      PNW vulture pm me for parts
                      Strategic nw e30 command

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                        Can anyone lend their thoughts here?

                        My car is hard to start after the swap. It cranks for a loooong time (10 secs?) before finally popping, and then starting. It's almost as if there's no fuel pressure in the system - but that can't be right, can it? Because it eventually starts, and runs just fine. If it's been running a while and I shut it off, then restart, it catches right away. Any ideas you have I'd really appreciate.


                        Also, a pic.
                        '89 Schwarz E30 M3 Cabriolet Build

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                          nyone have any experiance with the koni str shocks?
                          Yeah, they damp "ok" for a street car- but I got to use the Koni warranty twice in
                          the first 3 years, which is a real pain in the ass. Having run yellows, they are a little
                          stiffer than the full soft setting, but not a whole lot. Low compression damping,
                          moderate rebound.
                          Had they managed to keep their oil in, I'da said "they're fine for what they are" but
                          after the second one dumped all its oil AND the valve stack, I lost faith.

                          This was just for commuting- I think I may have done 3 or four laps total with that car,
                          on a DE day.

                          'would not buy again'

                          t
                          now, sometimes I just mess with people. It's more entertaining that way. george graves

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                            Originally posted by IronJoe View Post
                            Can anyone lend their thoughts here?

                            My car is hard to start after the swap. It cranks for a loooong time (10 secs?) before finally popping, and then starting. It's almost as if there's no fuel pressure in the system - but that can't be right, can it? Because it eventually starts, and runs just fine. If it's been running a while and I shut it off, then restart, it catches right away. Any ideas you have I'd really appreciate.
                            Looking good!

                            Have you pulled the tank and checked the sock? Also, check the vent lines to the tank. It sounds like it's having a little trouble building up pressure to the rail. If you have access to a fuel pressure test gauge, that would tell you a lot as well.

                            the starting when it's hot is because there is still some residual pressure/fuel in the line and it's covering the time it takes to build..

                            I assume the regulator is the one that came out of the old M3, correct?

                            Really, you need to get your hands on a pressure gauge. I have a Harbor Freight one, but I'm down in Portland.
                            1984 Alpina B6 2.8/1 #35
                            1991 325i MT2 Touring (JDM bro)
                            1991 Racecar (Chase Schmidt's former drift car - M30)
                            2006 BMW X3
                            2011 Audi A3 - wife's other German car

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                              Fuel pressure testing

                              Do you notice any difference if you 'prime' the fuel line by turning the key to 'acc' before turning all the way to ignition? When my cold start injector was acting up, i would do that - just turn the key part way, let the fuel pressure build, then ignite. (Followed by rich exhaust fumes.)
                              You still should so some diagnostics with a fuel pressure gauge, but this might focus your work. (If the fuel pump or regulator is bad, my suggestion may highlight the lack of pressure.)

                              [QUOTE=IronJoe;4752439]Can anyone lend their thoughts here?

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                                Originally posted by djjerme View Post
                                Have you pulled the tank and checked the sock? Also, check the vent lines to the tank. It sounds like it's having a little trouble building up pressure to the rail. If you have access to a fuel pressure test gauge, that would tell you a lot as well.

                                the starting when it's hot is because there is still some residual pressure/fuel in the line and it's covering the time it takes to build..

                                I assume the regulator is the one that came out of the old M3, correct?

                                Really, you need to get your hands on a pressure gauge. I have a Harbor Freight one, but I'm down in Portland.
                                I haven't done much troubleshooting yet. I am also low on gas (only put a little bit in for testing) but I'm not sure that would cause this issue.

                                Yes everything engine wise is from the M3. New fuel hoses all around. I haven't changed the fuel filter but it's on my list. Good call on checking fuel pressure, I might be able to find a fuel pressure gauge to test.

                                Originally posted by M10Power View Post
                                Do you notice any difference if you 'prime' the fuel line by turning the key to 'acc' before turning all the way to ignition? When my cold start injector was acting up, i would do that - just turn the key part way, let the fuel pressure build, then ignite. (Followed by rich exhaust fumes.)
                                You still should so some diagnostics with a fuel pressure gauge, but this might focus your work. (If the fuel pump or regulator is bad, my suggestion may highlight the lack of pressure.)
                                No difference I'm afraid. I had that idea today so I left the key on for a minute or so, then cranked it from cold, no change. Still took ~10 secs to start popping. After that it stumbled for a bit. And then finally started - once it starts it idles fine, sounds great, revs well.
                                '89 Schwarz E30 M3 Cabriolet Build

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