If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
My car is hard to start after the swap. It cranks for a loooong time (10 secs?) before finally popping, and then starting. It's almost as if there's no fuel pressure in the system - but that can't be right, can it? Because it eventually starts, and runs just fine. If it's been running a while and I shut it off, then restart, it catches right away. Any ideas you have I'd really appreciate.
nyone have any experiance with the koni str shocks?
Yeah, they damp "ok" for a street car- but I got to use the Koni warranty twice in
the first 3 years, which is a real pain in the ass. Having run yellows, they are a little
stiffer than the full soft setting, but not a whole lot. Low compression damping,
moderate rebound.
Had they managed to keep their oil in, I'da said "they're fine for what they are" but
after the second one dumped all its oil AND the valve stack, I lost faith.
This was just for commuting- I think I may have done 3 or four laps total with that car,
on a DE day.
'would not buy again'
t
now, sometimes I just mess with people. It's more entertaining that way. george graves
My car is hard to start after the swap. It cranks for a loooong time (10 secs?) before finally popping, and then starting. It's almost as if there's no fuel pressure in the system - but that can't be right, can it? Because it eventually starts, and runs just fine. If it's been running a while and I shut it off, then restart, it catches right away. Any ideas you have I'd really appreciate.
Looking good!
Have you pulled the tank and checked the sock? Also, check the vent lines to the tank. It sounds like it's having a little trouble building up pressure to the rail. If you have access to a fuel pressure test gauge, that would tell you a lot as well.
the starting when it's hot is because there is still some residual pressure/fuel in the line and it's covering the time it takes to build..
I assume the regulator is the one that came out of the old M3, correct?
Really, you need to get your hands on a pressure gauge. I have a Harbor Freight one, but I'm down in Portland.
1991 325i MT2 Touring (JDM bro)
2016 Ford Flex
2011 Audi A3 - wife's other German car
Do you notice any difference if you 'prime' the fuel line by turning the key to 'acc' before turning all the way to ignition? When my cold start injector was acting up, i would do that - just turn the key part way, let the fuel pressure build, then ignite. (Followed by rich exhaust fumes.)
You still should so some diagnostics with a fuel pressure gauge, but this might focus your work. (If the fuel pump or regulator is bad, my suggestion may highlight the lack of pressure.)
[QUOTE=IronJoe;4752439]Can anyone lend their thoughts here?
Have you pulled the tank and checked the sock? Also, check the vent lines to the tank. It sounds like it's having a little trouble building up pressure to the rail. If you have access to a fuel pressure test gauge, that would tell you a lot as well.
the starting when it's hot is because there is still some residual pressure/fuel in the line and it's covering the time it takes to build..
I assume the regulator is the one that came out of the old M3, correct?
Really, you need to get your hands on a pressure gauge. I have a Harbor Freight one, but I'm down in Portland.
I haven't done much troubleshooting yet. I am also low on gas (only put a little bit in for testing) but I'm not sure that would cause this issue.
Yes everything engine wise is from the M3. New fuel hoses all around. I haven't changed the fuel filter but it's on my list. Good call on checking fuel pressure, I might be able to find a fuel pressure gauge to test.
Do you notice any difference if you 'prime' the fuel line by turning the key to 'acc' before turning all the way to ignition? When my cold start injector was acting up, i would do that - just turn the key part way, let the fuel pressure build, then ignite. (Followed by rich exhaust fumes.)
You still should so some diagnostics with a fuel pressure gauge, but this might focus your work. (If the fuel pump or regulator is bad, my suggestion may highlight the lack of pressure.)
No difference I'm afraid. I had that idea today so I left the key on for a minute or so, then cranked it from cold, no change. Still took ~10 secs to start popping. After that it stumbled for a bit. And then finally started - once it starts it idles fine, sounds great, revs well.
Comment