Originally posted by M10Power
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Originally posted by EN318isPDX View PostHe cheaper than bavrest?
better quality also, probably similar prices, but he uses actual dials and such, i have seen some bav rest clusters use like a paper type material behind gauge faces.
He just seems to use better quality supplies, i have dealt with him a few times, and he is a 1 man show, and does great work
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Originally posted by Matt-B View Postbetter quality also, probably similar prices, but he uses actual dials and such, i have seen some bav rest clusters use like a paper type material behind gauge faces.
He just seems to use better quality supplies, i have dealt with him a few times, and he is a 1 man show, and does great work
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Originally posted by M10Power View PostWow what an icy drive in to work today! Quite grateful I finally made time to install the Michelin snow tires late last week.
Oddly enough I had decent grip, but the temp gauge was spiking while putting along on black ice at 10 mph. Coolant level seems fine. (Scratches head.)
I would also look into the possibility of a bad fan clutch.
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Originally posted by EN318isPDX View PostNice! Just contact him via IG? ps unblock me on fb
whats your face book name, i think we fought like 10 years ago lol
and yea contact via IG
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Originally posted by Pdxseth View PostI would also look into the possibility of a bad fan clutch.
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That may explain the earlier symptom of inconstant air temp blowing in to cabin, yes? A bad gauge doesn't explain intermittent cool air blowing in when max heat is selected. (That's what made me think low coolant or bad heater core. So coolant level is okay. But this could still be a mechanical issue.)
(Who had the fight? I'm lost on that.)
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Originally posted by M10Power View PostThat may explain the earlier symptom of inconstant air temp blowing in to cabin, yes? A bad gauge doesn't explain intermittent cool air blowing in when max heat is selected. (That's what made me think low coolant or bad heater core. So coolant level is okay. But this could still be a mechanical issue.)
(Who had the fight? I'm lost on that.)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk'72 2002 pickup | '88 M5 | '89 330is | '89 M3 | '01 Z3M | '11 328xi-t
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Originally posted by M10Power View PostThat may explain the earlier symptom of inconstant air temp blowing in to cabin,
there was a recall(iirc) where they put an inline thermostat in the heater lines. I think that it worked in the opposite fashion of a normal thermostat, blocking coolant flow( or something) because the heaters where building up to much pressure or something and blowing causing hot coolant to be sprayed on the drivers right leg.
a 84 325e I pulled a motor on years back had this recall on it. it was a super weird setup if your use to the normal
google e30 heater bypass valve and you'll find pics, normal cars have simply a hose from the back of the head going straight to the heater and a hose from the heater under the intake via one single hose, no valve
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Originally posted by Austin! View PostYou need a thermostat. Slam it in and call it a day.
Don't cheap out on the t stat, I did one on my 318 last year, I made he mistake of buying a Murray from o Riley's and it broke in half within 10 minutes, they cost around 130 from BMW but it's worth it if you plan to keep the m10
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Originally posted by Pdxseth View PostDon't cheap out on the t stat, I did one on my 318 last year, I made he mistake of buying a Murray from o Riley's and it broke in half within 10 minutes, they cost around 130 from BMW but it's worth it if you plan to keep the m10
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What if I don't "slam" the $10 'stat in? Haha
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