Another N52 swap attempt!

[projectJTv4]

No problem. I don't remember if I saw this posted here, but will this work?

https://racegerman.com/products/bmw-swap-ac-module-kit

[Striker01]

I'm not sure. Someone asked about one of those controllers in a thread and never got a response. I'm thinking there is an easier solution. The Z4 HVAC controller has a dedicated wire thru the IVM to pin 21 of X60002 of MSV70, labeled Comp Enable DME. We just need to figure out what input MSV70 is looking for there.

I wish I knew someone with a Z4.

Way better than spending $250 on something that I don't know if it will work or not.

How's your oil pan coming along?

[projectJTv4]

UPS actually just delivered my shipment from SendCutSend not too long ago, feels like Christmas. Hopefully some progress this week.

[Striker01]

Started removing parts from the front end/engine bay to get it painted and saw a squirrel so now I'm back to sorting the wiring. New C101 is wired except for the the coolant temp and oil level that will come directly from the engine harness. I'm unwrapping the under hood harness all the way back to the fuse box. Some previous owner wired in the brake duct temp sensor and OBC alarm horn with wire nuts, then wrapped the entire harness in vinyl tape. I got rid of the OBC horn and fixed the temp sensor wiring. My ABS sensor plugs have have disintegrated so I ordered a couple Deutsch connectors to replace them. I also want the PWM signal for the fan to be ran with all the other front end wiring.


Here is where my wiring plan, I believe I've accounted for everything except for C101 pin 1, hopefully Hoveringuy's solution is working out nicely. If you see anything wrong please let me know.

E30 N52 swap wiring.pdf

Mandatory update picture.

[Striker01]

Long past due progress. Busy time of year at work and with yard work.

I switched the crab box harness from the E90 over to the Z4/IVM setup. It's longer and hopefully will reach into the glove box also prevented me changing alternator and throttle body connectors to match my donor engine.

There are a couple slight differences in the harness between MSV70 and 80.

X60005 had 2 differences that I noticed. Everything else pinned out the same, verified with a continuity check. Both differences are in the hot-film air mass meter wiring. The Z4 had 4 wires running to it. It has a supply line from the ECU on pin 25 that isn't there on the e90 harness. I'm hoping it's not needed because it also had a power run from the Green connector, now connected to the IVM. I pulled that wire and went with the E90 MAF/connector that came with my donor car. Please let me know if I need to add it back for MSV70.

The other change is that the E90 has a signal wire on pin 4 of X60005 and the Z4 has it on pin 26.

Another small change is that the Z4 provides power to some of the crab harness using 2 separate wires on pins 4 and 5 of X60193, the E90 only had one wire for those same components. I got rid of pin 4 and used the single power wire on the E90. That shouldn't make a difference as pins 4,5,7 and 8 are all powered from fuse 1.

I'm glad I had both crab boxes because it took both to get enough pieces to fix broken connectors and sheathing. I added both the temp gauge coolant sensor and used the N52 oil condition wires for the oil level sensor, then stripped out rear O2 sensor wiring.

[Striker01]

Made some decent progress the last month and a half. The temps make it miserable in the garage and I spent way too much time working on a couple house projects.

I decided to make my core support removable, about a week of work in the evenings but I it will make engine bay painting and and engine install much easier. I used the rageitparts kit but didn't install the brackets that bolt to the bottom side of the frame rail. It feels plenty stable with 6 bolts per side.

Before cutting off the last two alignment spot welds on each top side and the frame rail bracket, I drilled 4 x 1/8" alignment holes that I can use to make sure its aligned when bolting it back in afterwards.





This was the only spot weld that didn't line up almost perfectly after bolting it in. This car was crunched in the front sometime
earlier in it's life so I don't know how straight it was to begin with.


I cut these tabs off the frame rail after I was finished using them for alignment.



My welds aren't very pretty so I cheated and went over them with a TIG torch to make them look more presentable before I sent it off for powder coating.
The PC was confident he could get powder inside the boxed part of the core support so hopefully it comes out nice.

[Striker01]

I got the fan controller mount and E46 fuel pressure regulator bracket done. Just need to figure out what adapter I need to get from the regulator threaded part to a fuel line barb for the stock fuel hose.





After getting one M6 Rivet nut installed decided that would be more than enough to hold the regulator.




Need to fix some rust where the washer bottle bracket used to be, then days of sanding and cleaning before paint. Hopefully that's it before I can get the engine installed for good.

[hoveringuy]

That regulator has M12 female threads, you need an M12x1.5 ORB to 8mm barb (but 5/16" is 7.95mm if you don't mind being off a hair. )

I also prefer the bonded washer here.

Let's get it started!

[Striker01]

That regulator has M12 female threads, you need an M12x1.5 ORB to 8mm barb (but 5/16" is 7.95mm if you don't mind being off a hair. )

I also prefer the bonded washer here.

Let's get it started!

Thanks, I'll get one of those ordered!

[Striker01]

I feel like I may be in the wrong forum now, this swap has turned into quite the project. I think I'm finally on the last big step before getting this engine in for good!

I got the parts to adapt the pressure regulator and got it back from plating, Thanks for saving me looking up stuff Steve!



Sent off my gauges to Bavrest for a makeover, had some coolant and fuel gauge issues. While it was there I went ahead and did an 8k tach, Adam's intake has me thinking of future ideas! Came back looking awesome, sorry for the picture, don't want to remove the plastic until its back in.



I had to wait a couple months for mastercoat permanent rust sealer to come back in stock. I've had good luck with it and it doesn't require a rinse after acid etching.

While I was waiting on that I started prepping the engine bay. Scuffed the whole thing with 220 and unfortunately found more rust in the process. Hindsight, I should've done this while the interior was out. I'm not pulling it back out so it all got converted, mastercoated and seam sealed. I have to stop digging or this project will never end, I just want to enjoy the car again.

This hole was the only one I found that perforated completely.



More at the battery post attachment.



I stripped out all the seam sealer I could in the cowl; sanded, etched, primed, seam sealed and painted. Hopefully it lasts another 30 years.

The last bit was here where the seam sealer failed under the fuse box, there is damage to both front frame rails and a crease under the fuse box from a past life collision, thinking that may be what caused it.
Also got rid of some brackets on the fender.


I acid treated the area and coated the inside of both frame rails with Eastwood chassis stuff before I started on the bay.

[Striker01]

This is the only rust I thought I had to address in the engine bay.



Not pretty but patched.



Next was prep for Mastercoat, 2 coats of that and some filler for my poor metal work. Random question, has anyone else noticed the shock towers are wavy or is just my car? Both need a little filler to smooth.

You can see where the frame rails were mangled before.



Did one more coat of mastercoat and replaced a bunch of seam sealer last night. Got home today eager to get epoxy primer on and went back quite a few steps. It was hot and kinda muggy and I probably should've been closer to my work but I ended up messing up the primer process. It laid down super fuzzy and looks like crap. I'll get some red scotch brite pads tomorrow, hopefully I can get it smooth enough to prime again. I do not want to sand it again, it took forever.



It all looks like this up close. I'm open for any tips, used Eastwood 2k Epoxy cans. Planning to try and apply it heavier, I'd rather smooth a possible run than have to sand the entire thing again.

[moatilliatta]

How old are the cans?

I use the spraymax version, and it’ll look like that if a popped can sets around too long.

[Striker01]

How old are the cans?

I use the spraymax version, and it’ll look like that if a popped can sets around too long.

Thanks for the reply. Can was new and used immediately after mixing. I had better luck with round two, maybe 4-5" from the panels and moving slower with my sweeps. Laid down much better but still some overspray, not sure it can be avoided with all the flat surfaces in the bay. I just hope the paint wont setup as fast.

[Striker01]

Finally calling the engine bay good enough. Tried mixed to match cans twice and ended up sanding it back down both times, looked horrible. Got a paint gun and some real paint to try for the third time. Engine bay probably isn't the best place to learn how to spray with a gun but it turned out better than the rattle can jobs. Ended up with a couple runs and a little clearcoat sagging but overall I think it turned out decent. Let it cure for a few days and then on to re-assembly. Excited the job I was dreading the most is done. Next update will be N52 related, I promise.

[Striker01]

Got the engine installed today, only took one trip to Harbor Freight for an engine lift jack that crapped out!!

Replaced all the brake hard lines and added rear subframe and diff bushings to match the engine/transmission mounts. I don't really dig the green brake fittings but I didn't want to use stainless in the aluminum and I had a hard time finding M10 bubble fittings for 3/16th line. Still need to finish up the master cylinder lines but waiting on a RHD tesla master I found for a decent price.

Bay assembled and ready for install.



Finally in!!



Tons of room as posted before, with the ibooster. About 11mm at it's closest point to the 3 stage intake.



Mis-judged my fuel regulator mount. AN fitting is longer than I anticipated, going to have to shave the edge of the engine arm a little bit. Will require bolting the mount on after the fuel line is connected.



No I can start chipping away at wiring, button up the exhaust and modify the shift carrier. I think I'm going to just run AN line for the coolant line that needs to route over to the driver's side, less fabrication that way.