Nando I'll borrow a set from you if you have them kicking around. It'll be a miracle if they work.
I'm pretty sure my engine position is nailed down. The brackets are not even tacked together, but when they are it'll be using the current engine position as my reference. Any rearward movement is going to compromise the heater hose attachments here:

CWLO didn't have that problem because his intake manifold doesn't drop down that far... honestly he might not even have a heater connection if it's just his autocross car. There's no way I'm not connecting the heater... and honestly keeping the 3-stage intake was one of my stated goals for the swap. We know the power output of this engine with the single stage and 3 stage n52 intakes... we don't know what the curve looks like with the N54 intake.

There's definitely room a the back of the engine, but the only two reasons I can think of to push it back are for weight distribution (an inch might matter, but not much) and for fan space (I'll get to that in a minute). when I moved the engine back much further the trans was hitting the tunnel, which meant it needed to drop lower. Clearance to the subframe was already a problem, so that would have meant adding tilt because there's no room to shift the whole engine down. I didn't know this while I had the full engine/trans package in there, but my alignment ended up pretty ok:

This is bore-sighted through the empty block towards the CSB. It's not aligned any more than me holding my phone in front of the engine... but it doesn't encourage me to tilt the engine further. I measured the declination of the M20 in my other car at 3.5 degrees, and this is currently at 3 degrees, so it's pretty dang close.
Part of the work that I tested but didn't share because it didn't work out was trying to get the entire Z4 radiator and puller fan package to fit in front of the engine:

If I thought I was only 3/4" away from making this work I'd definitely think about moving the engine back. As it stands it interferes by at least an inch. There's three inches and change to bearing seat on the front of the block from the face of the radiator (protected with cardboard) and probably two and a half clear to the crank pulley. The z4 fan shroud and motor is about 4 1/2" at this point, which is a shame. in addition to that, there's a significant amount of tank you have to shave off the passenger side (you can see near the low rad hose connection) that would have to be patched back up. The "thin" z4 core with the z4 fan is probably a nonstarter regardless of engine position. I considered a "thin" z3 core and trying to get a pull fan to fit, but I'm now leaning towards a 3-core with a push fan. Plenty of people do that... it doesn't seem like many of them retain air conditioning. I'm actually curious to see how much air the aux fan can push. I expect I"ll see how things work out with the thicker and more efficient radiator with just the aux fan before I solve the push-fan problem.
I'm pretty sure my engine position is nailed down. The brackets are not even tacked together, but when they are it'll be using the current engine position as my reference. Any rearward movement is going to compromise the heater hose attachments here:
CWLO didn't have that problem because his intake manifold doesn't drop down that far... honestly he might not even have a heater connection if it's just his autocross car. There's no way I'm not connecting the heater... and honestly keeping the 3-stage intake was one of my stated goals for the swap. We know the power output of this engine with the single stage and 3 stage n52 intakes... we don't know what the curve looks like with the N54 intake.
There's definitely room a the back of the engine, but the only two reasons I can think of to push it back are for weight distribution (an inch might matter, but not much) and for fan space (I'll get to that in a minute). when I moved the engine back much further the trans was hitting the tunnel, which meant it needed to drop lower. Clearance to the subframe was already a problem, so that would have meant adding tilt because there's no room to shift the whole engine down. I didn't know this while I had the full engine/trans package in there, but my alignment ended up pretty ok:
This is bore-sighted through the empty block towards the CSB. It's not aligned any more than me holding my phone in front of the engine... but it doesn't encourage me to tilt the engine further. I measured the declination of the M20 in my other car at 3.5 degrees, and this is currently at 3 degrees, so it's pretty dang close.
Part of the work that I tested but didn't share because it didn't work out was trying to get the entire Z4 radiator and puller fan package to fit in front of the engine:
If I thought I was only 3/4" away from making this work I'd definitely think about moving the engine back. As it stands it interferes by at least an inch. There's three inches and change to bearing seat on the front of the block from the face of the radiator (protected with cardboard) and probably two and a half clear to the crank pulley. The z4 fan shroud and motor is about 4 1/2" at this point, which is a shame. in addition to that, there's a significant amount of tank you have to shave off the passenger side (you can see near the low rad hose connection) that would have to be patched back up. The "thin" z4 core with the z4 fan is probably a nonstarter regardless of engine position. I considered a "thin" z3 core and trying to get a pull fan to fit, but I'm now leaning towards a 3-core with a push fan. Plenty of people do that... it doesn't seem like many of them retain air conditioning. I'm actually curious to see how much air the aux fan can push. I expect I"ll see how things work out with the thicker and more efficient radiator with just the aux fan before I solve the push-fan problem.
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