N52 Swap Discussion

[nando]

the 330i 6mt came with a 3.15 stock. it's pretty perfect for that car, even though it's way heavier than any E30.

Some guys like to put in the 3.73 from the xi/auto, but I don't really see the point.

[hoveringuy]

the 330i 6mt came with a 3.15 stock. it's pretty perfect for that car, even though it's way heavier than any E30.

Some guys like to put in the 3.73 from the xi/auto, but I don't really see the point.

Plus we have smaller wheels so it ends up being shorter.

I have the 3.15 Torsen and it's great. 3.25 was good, too. 3.73 was fun but annoying on the highway. With a 6 speed there's no reason not to have civilized highway gearing

[DEV0 E30]

Plus we have smaller wheels so it ends up being shorter.

I have the 3.15 Torsen and it's great. 3.25 was good, too. 3.73 was fun but annoying on the highway. With a 6 speed there's no reason not to have civilized highway gearing

Good to know.

[D_Eclipse9916]

It's interesting to me that the factory tuning for valvetronic is so complicated. I could see how the MSV70 could be programmed to take a lot of extra variables into consideration if the goal was the perfect fuel mixture and optimal fuel economy, but based on how it works mechanically I don't see how it wouldn't be possible to set up some kind of simplified relationship between the valvetronic position and pedal position.

I have been trying to find which models came with an N52 and DCT but I'm actually think there weren't any at this point. All models on realoem that came with an N52 do not list the DCT as a transmission options no matter which region I select. If there was one that would be great but it may not solve all my problems. Caperix mentions differential ratios being a problem. If that's the case I will definitely run into that because I'm going to be running a 3.91 or something even higher. The classes I run in are based around power to weight, so running shorter gears is a big advantage. The higher redline potential of the N52 was one of the biggest draws for me in the first place for this reason. ABS is simple as the MK60 is amazing and a fully standalone system on it's own.


I do believe the DCT works by sending power cut and blip requests to the ECU when you call for a shift. At least that is how the major GCUs/standalones on the market operate. Right now if I do go with a standalone I'm leading toward the Maxxecu. They are the only standalone manufacturer I've seen that can integrate with the factory DCT TCU which to me is a big advantage. At least one VSS is required, but I'd have to dig into the pinouts on the DCT connector to see if it's getting VSS directly in the factory application. You can read more about the Maxxecu DCT stuff here if you're curious: https://www.maxxecu.com/webhelp/advanced-bmw_dct.html.

You guys have already shown that the MSV70 can make great power in a track car application and for racers just looking to run an N52 with a manual there's certainly no reason not to use it. It looks like there are still hurdles to overcome with the tuning side of things, but I'm sure that will come in time. For me and my buddy the challenge is the DCT. He's all in on the standalone because they've already made it work at Maxxecu and they are easier to tune, but I would have a hard time ditching the MSV70 if it meant I could run valvetronic and have my cake too. I also think it would make this conversion more accessible for people who are turned off by a standalone. I have a lot more research to do but I appreciate this thread and the discussion here.

You make any progress?
I have a N52 with HTG GCU controlling the ZF 8 speed. With their new closed loop tuning and DBW mod, I am running it off a stock ECU (and works awesome).

In fact the only issue I have right now is the ECU is stuck in limp mode, hoping Nando can help out with that. But the HTG GCU is running it perfectly, you just have to intercept the 2x pedal signal wiring so the GCU can control blips and cuts. The closed loop mode works fantastic right out of the box, once I got full throttle; just need to adjust a couple parameters for feel out on track.

[DEV0 E30]

Looking at planning and sourcing parts soon, any suggestions for engine + transmission sources other than ebay? I'll start searching locally too.

[D_Eclipse9916]

Looking at planning and sourcing parts soon, any suggestions for engine + transmission sources other than ebay? I'll start searching locally too.

Where are you located? I have a spare engine and six speed transmission, but only makes sense if local because of weight.

I found my multiples on ebay/facebook, as dismantlers do business on ebay its better than private. The engines are so cheap, private sellers think they are worth far more.

[nando]

Ebay is probably the way to go because it's a bigger market and easier to shop for a good deal. Local sellers seem to want as much as a whole car and who knows what the engine condition will be. There are millions of these engines and they were made as recently as 2013, there's no reason for them to be expensive.

[hoveringuy]

I got my motor through a dismantler I found through auto parts.com. I've been seeing 100k mile motors with transmissions on local forums for ~$500.

In other news, I now have a dual-pump tank setup where the left and right pumps feed in parallel, I can turn the left one on when fuel gets low enough to warrant. Ran it down to 5 gals yesterday no issue

There was an SRT Challenger that was very close to my pace which I found interesting. I thought it was pretty agile for a 4000lb car, who would have thought?

Also ran with a gutted E36 M3 S52. I was walking him on the straight, but he was faster through the corners.

SRT:

https://youtu.be/xfEFvXm4p8o

[LukeJ]

Great video as always....

It seemed like you were slowly catching the SRT, but you could see what kind of power he's got coming out of the corners.

I bought my motor and transmission from this place: Used BMW Parts | Various Models | Redline Auto Parts

At the time, I was able to buy all the parts from the same car, all with low miles. I paid $1200 for my motor, but it came with all the accessories and wiring harness', minus the 3 stage manifold, which I didn't plan to use anyways. They shipped it all on a pallet and it was well protected. The only hang up was, I had to have it delivered to a place with a forklift.

[DEV0 E30]

Where are you located? I have a spare engine and six speed transmission, but only makes sense if local because of weight.

I found my multiples on ebay/facebook, as dismantlers do business on ebay its better than private. The engines are so cheap, private sellers think they are worth far more.

Located in Phoenix, Arizona

Even a few on ebay seemed expensive, but I'll continue to look.

Not in a rush, but at the same time I don't care to throw much more at the M40.

Thanks for the info guys.

[projectJTv4]

I got my motor through a dismantler I found through auto parts.com. I've been seeing 100k mile motors with transmissions on local forums for ~$500.

https://youtu.be/xfEFvXm4p8o

Dang that is cheap. A local dismantler wants 900 for the engine and 650 for the trans. I'll have to keep looking locally. Thanks for the point of reference.

[DEV0 E30]

Guess who got a ride in an extremely well sorted N52 swapped E30?

This guy. All of my assumptions were correct. It's the swap for me.

[Cdmef]

I’m stripping a donor 330, just a quick question on wiring I’m pulling. There is a group of wires from chassis to the little grey plug within the ecu wiring. I managed to separate it from the main clip so the rest can be pulled with the engine. Should I cut those wires from the chassis and keep the plug or is it not needed? There is one twisted shielded wire in that plug

[hoveringuy]

I’m stripping a donor 330, just a quick question on wiring I’m pulling. There is a group of wires from chassis to the little grey plug within the ecu wiring. I managed to separate it from the main clip so the rest can be pulled with the engine. Should I cut those wires from the chassis and keep the plug or is it not needed? There is one twisted shielded wire in that plug

I'm not sure what those wires or the gray plug is, I would cut the wires and keep the plug just in case. 95% of the stock ECU to chassis wires won't be used. The few exceptions are IGN, starter and the fuel pump control module. (btw, don't bother pulling that because it won't work, you'll need one from a Z)

[Cdmef]

Ok thanks. I figured it would be better to just take the pigtail in case.