N52 Swap Discussion

[hoveringuy]

If you are using the stock N52 sensors, you should be able to pull oil temp (for example, I was able to pull oil temp in my 128i simply by the addition of a 135i cluster) from the DME. Not sure what would be needed to translate this to a gauge, though.

The oil temp comes from the sump module that also does the oil condition and oil level analysis. I deleted that and just have the dipstick so I have no other way of getting oul temp.

My goal is to ensure that it's Ok under the worst conditions and then not worry about it...

[Donkeyshins]

The oil temp comes from the sump module that also does the oil condition and oil level analysis. I deleted that and just have the dipstick so I have no other way of getting oul temp.

My goal is to ensure that it's Ok under the worst conditions and then not worry about it...

Good to know. Thank you for clarifying (wasn't aware that it was doing temp on top of condition / level).

[Donkeyshins]

I'm planning on upgrading my N52 in my 128i to include the oil / coolant heat exchanger (have all the parts in a Rubbermaid bin in the garage, just need to get my son's car running again first so he isn't borrowing my E82 all the time) as it is a relatively simple job (other than messy because oil+coolant).

[hoveringuy]

A coupla small updates in progress....

My oil temps without any cooling was running 265F at the track which is not horrible but I really need a cooler, so fitting the integrated oil/coolant heat exchanger to see how much it comes down. I'd be happy with anything below 230 and I can change to a dedicated oil cooler if I need to in the future (N54 style). Still almost an inch of clearance between the cooler neck and the radiator.

Also, to make room for a potential revised intake I'm moving the coolant reservoir to the battery tray. I HAVE THE CAD FOR THIS if anybody wants it.. It will now tee in at the heater core, need to move radiator bleed nipple to the right side as well. It will be more-better.

I also changed the VANOS solenoid O-rings while the radiator is out. Impossible to do with the radiator in. Very easy job and the old O-rings were pretty hard.

[moatilliatta]

I'm guessing expansion tank hose size determines the flow of water filling system minus the amount of air that can bleed back to it?

Other than that no effect on cooling, I suppose it could be 3/8 or even 5/16 hose could be used in theory?

I've thought about downsizing expansion tank hose size on some builds for packaging.


Were those oil temps in the pan or at the Oil Filter Housing?

[hoveringuy]

moatilliatta The outlet hose is still bigger than the bleed hose from the radiator, so the operational impact will be exactly zero. The practical impact will be that the system will take a few more minutes to fill, but my hose is smaller, shorter and out of the way. I also have a multi-level tree in the tank to help visually determine fluid level

For temp I had a calibrated thermocouple in the middle of the pan through the dip tube. "actual" oil temp could have been higher!

[hoveringuy]

moatilliattaAlso, the baffle isn't there primarily to be a baffle

That's just a bonus.

It's a structural element because I have large, flat sides and 10psi really adds-up!

[hoveringuy]

My mini-depot overhaul is complete. I'm pleased with the utility of the new reservoir, the level sender works great! I need to add a flow restrictor to the bleed line because the 3/8" line flows WAY too much (but it is effective)

Coolant temperature seems to take longer to come up to temperature, it's freezing outside presently, so that's a lot of the reason, but I also wonder if it's because the oil is now being heated by the coolant....?

I had a small weep from the (original!) coolant pipe O-ring, as well as small oil weeps from the also-original VANOS and cam sensor O-rings. Everything else looked fine.

Also a picture with the two styles of coolant pipe, with and without oil heat exchanger bleed nipple.

[hoveringuy]

I've been trying to do a proper corner weight of my car for a while now, all I've known is that I cross the big scales at 2700# and that my car is around 2470#

Short of proper corner scales, I bought a $50 Amazon 700# scale and leveled the car. I rolled it back and forth each time I moved the scale to unbind the suspension, measuring 1 wheel at a time. (the other 3 wheels were on lumber to match the scale height)

N52 (obviously), no A/C, no sunroof, 2 Sparco seats, no radio or speakers. no tar. rear seat delete.

Full carpet, full tank of gas, spare.

Power steering moved to trunk, 38# lead battery replaced by 6# lithium.

If I remove the spare my full-up track weight is 2400 with a full tank.

Update to my previous weight; I borrowed a set of proper corner scales and the total was shockingly close to what I got just using a single 700# Amazon scale switched from wheel to wheel to wheel...

-no sunroof
-full tank of gas
-no spare, Sparco seats, lithium battery.

Goal is under 2400 with full fuel. That's means carbon hood and lighter bumpers.

[ethirty-eric]

This is my first post. I'm pretty new here and I was shopping for an E30. I recently ended up getting an E46 chassis. I'm really interested in this particular thread because I plan to swap in an N52. I have a partial motor, partial harness and some modules. Apart from reading thru 55 pages to get the information I need, is there a summary of all the electronic parts needed to get the motor to start and run? This is what I have so far:

1. engine harness with small DME connector [x60002, x60003], it's missing x60001 and harness, which connects the CAS, EKP, accelerator pedal, etc.
2. engine harness with large DME connector [x60004, x60005, x60006, x60007]
3. matching MSV80, CAS and key.
4. throttle body for both n52 and n52n. I got the later TB because I want to go with MSV80, assuming it's a better DME. But now I'm reading that the MSV70 is easier. I can just buy another DME if this is the preferred DME.
5. N52 long block with injectors, coil packs, 3 stage intake and most of the sensors. Missing the valvetronic motor and accessories [alternator, electric water pump, power steering pump, tensioner pulleys]. Oh, also the O2 sensors.

From reading some of this thread, I will need the EKP fuel pump module and the IVM integrated fuse block. The main question is, can someone summarize the needed parts? I believe some of the modules can be deleted by coding or re-flashing the DME. My background is reverse engineering and I do a lot of this CAN protocol work. I hope I can add to this knowledge base and help create things that are needed to help the cause. Sorry, I'm not an E30 owner but I am an N52/E46 owner now. I'm looking for help on the N52 side of things.

[projectJTv4]

By no means complete, but this may be helpful:

https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/forum/e30-technical-forums/24v-engine-swaps/n54-n52-swap-forum/10079212-i’m-joining-the-club?p=10079214#post10079214

[ethirty-eric]

Thanks, that helps! The part numbers especially to make sure of what I have or what I should have. I grabbed an accelerator out of a later E46. Will this work in place of the E90 pedal or does the pedal have to match the throttle body?

[Caperix]

In theory the e46 should be an easy swap using z4 parts. There seems to be more info on ews delete for msv70 as it can have a programming header added as nando found early in these conversions. E83's use msv80.1 so it is likely possible to use that dme as well, just not as much information is out there on it. You will need to have the dme reflashed to e85/6 z4 or e83 x3 to have the correct can protocol. The ekps will need to match as well, there are msv80 cars that use a fuel pump relay but they use cas & ptcan so i don't believe that has been figured out yet.
I am interested to hear how your swap goes as I have been thinking of picking up an e46 compact & doing a n52 swap

[ethirty-eric]

Ok, thanks! It looks like I can start with an EWS delete. Where can I get this done? I've seen BimmerTools does it. I already purchased their MSV80 QuickFlash. Does anyone here on the forum also provide this service? Looking at other options. Before spending more money heading down MSV80, is the MSV70 a better route? Or if I EWS delete my MSV80, is it basically working the same as MSV70 EWS delete?

[adam.nonis]

I'm no expert, but from what I've seen, you'll want to use MSV70.


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