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Kamotors E30-Turbo to ITB M20

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    i have like a 2inch gap up top with the e28 rad so i'll see what i can do. i already opened all the slats up


    7speedshop.com

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      Why not do 50/50 distilled water and bmw coolant


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      1989 325is l 1984 euro 320i l 1970 2002 Racecar
      1991 318i 4dr slick top


      Euro spec 320i/Alpina B6 3.5 project(the never ending saga)
      Vintage race car revival (2002 content)
      Mtech 2 turbo restoration
      Brilliantrot slick top "build"

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        Damn that looks good. I need to drive the e30 up to Reno and hoon around with you guys.
        IG: @Baye30

        FRONT VALENCE IS ZENDER!!! STOP FILLING MY PM BOX PPL!!!

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          Originally posted by kamotors View Post
          i have like a 2inch gap up top with the e28 rad so i'll see what i can do. i already opened all the slats up
          Good. Let's see what you come up with.


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            So plan of action for now.

            adjust methnaol to kick in earlier, around 5psi. Since methanol is showing a direct relation to cooling my water temp in every single datalog it will help a lot.

            Exhaust wrap

            and I've put 200miles on this motor so far, planning on changing out the break in oil now.

            should I wait for 500miles for a change or change now at 200miles? I know a lot of people change at like 50miles but I've read and other use break in oil for around 500miles.


            7speedshop.com

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              That is scary that you are still on your initial oil. Rebuilt engines shave a surprising amount of metal off of the rings, and that all just floats around in your oil. I would most certainly get that oil out of there and replace it.
              Most people change their oil after firing the engine and letting it get to temp for the first time the engine is run, moving the idle around a lot. There will be quite a bit of metal in that first oil change. Go out and beat on it for 20 miles with lots of engine braking, change the oil. Continue with the aggressive driving and no long constant RPM's for about 500 miles, changing roughly at 50, 100 , 250 , 500.
              Seems like cheap insurance to me.

              Source : http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

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                I'm in the process of building a shroud for my pusher fan and integrating that sprayer idea into it - I'll let you know how it works, though I think the shroud alone is gonna help alot.

                Do you have room for a bigger radiator? z3m rads from mishimoto work quite well with getting rid of heat. Not so great with clearance though...

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                  Originally posted by GunMetalGrey View Post
                  That is scary that you are still on your initial oil. Rebuilt engines shave a surprising amount of metal off of the rings, and that all just floats around in your oil. I would most certainly get that oil out of there and replace it.
                  Most people change their oil after firing the engine and letting it get to temp for the first time the engine is run, moving the idle around a lot. There will be quite a bit of metal in that first oil change. Go out and beat on it for 20 miles with lots of engine braking, change the oil. Continue with the aggressive driving and no long constant RPM's for about 500 miles, changing roughly at 50, 100 , 250 , 500.
                  Seems like cheap insurance to me.

                  Source : http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
                  I'll change it out today.

                  Originally posted by jalopi View Post
                  I'm in the process of building a shroud for my pusher fan and integrating that sprayer idea into it - I'll let you know how it works, though I think the shroud alone is gonna help alot.

                  Do you have room for a bigger radiator? z3m rads from mishimoto work quite well with getting rid of heat. Not so great with clearance though...
                  I cant fit any of the mishimoto's it seems, I have the e28 radiator now so wont be changing radiators for a long time.


                  7speedshop.com

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                    Hrm. I'll post a pic of the shroud I make then. 100% it's gonna be ugly as fuck (maybe not, but it'll at least look all Frankenstein'd up, don't have any pieces big enough to make it out of 1 piece of sheet metal) but I expect it'll at least do its job just fine.

                    So a mishi e36 rad won't work? The core should be roughly the same thickness as the e28 core. The big difference is the cores though - from what I understand those "round tube" style radiators are real old school and nowhere near as efficient as the "flat tube" style modern cores.
                    Last edited by jalopi; 08-22-2014, 11:46 AM.

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                      Originally posted by jalopi View Post
                      Hrm. I'll post a pic of the shroud I make then. 100% it's gonna be ugly as fuck (maybe not, but it'll at least look all Frankenstein'd up, don't have any pieces big enough to make it out of 1 piece of sheet metal) but I expect it'll at least do its job just fine.

                      So a mishi e36 rad won't work? The core should be roughly the same thickness as the e28 core. The big difference is the cores though - from what I understand those "round tube" style radiators are real old school and nowhere near as efficient as the "flat tube" style modern cores.

                      as long as it works though.

                      I cant really go back to a e36/e30 rad because I had to chop frame brackets to fit the E28 radiator because its a much taller unit.


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                        I made my own brackets that raised it and used rubber bushings for sound deadening. Raised it above the rad support and then welded my own brackets in and drilled and tapped it to hold.


                        Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


                        1989 325is l 1984 euro 320i l 1970 2002 Racecar
                        1991 318i 4dr slick top


                        Euro spec 320i/Alpina B6 3.5 project(the never ending saga)
                        Vintage race car revival (2002 content)
                        Mtech 2 turbo restoration
                        Brilliantrot slick top "build"

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                          I'll grab some pics, it already sits above the core support


                          7speedshop.com

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                            here is some pics of the cooling system.
                            fan is in the center now
                            IMG_1162 by kamotors@y, on Flickr
                            radiator
                            IMG_1159 by kamotors@y, on Flickr
                            huge gap I need to fill
                            IMG_1156 by kamotors@y, on Flickr
                            E28 hoses fit much better than e34 hoses
                            IMG_1154 by kamotors@y, on Flickr


                            7speedshop.com

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                              Looks just about how my e36 mishimoto sits


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                              1989 325is l 1984 euro 320i l 1970 2002 Racecar
                              1991 318i 4dr slick top


                              Euro spec 320i/Alpina B6 3.5 project(the never ending saga)
                              Vintage race car revival (2002 content)
                              Mtech 2 turbo restoration
                              Brilliantrot slick top "build"

                              Comment


                                You should only do a ~20 minute idle on your initial oil (SAE30), and change it immediately after.

                                Then run a conventional oil for 500 miles.

                                Then throw in the goods.

                                Vacuum is your friend when seating rings.
                                1989 Hooptie 325iS Build Thread
                                1989 Zinnoberrot M3 Build Thread

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