i have like a 2inch gap up top with the e28 rad so i'll see what i can do. i already opened all the slats up
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Kamotors E30-Turbo to ITB M20
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Why not do 50/50 distilled water and bmw coolant
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Originally posted by kamotors View Posti have like a 2inch gap up top with the e28 rad so i'll see what i can do. i already opened all the slats up
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So plan of action for now.
adjust methnaol to kick in earlier, around 5psi. Since methanol is showing a direct relation to cooling my water temp in every single datalog it will help a lot.
Exhaust wrap
and I've put 200miles on this motor so far, planning on changing out the break in oil now.
should I wait for 500miles for a change or change now at 200miles? I know a lot of people change at like 50miles but I've read and other use break in oil for around 500miles.
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That is scary that you are still on your initial oil. Rebuilt engines shave a surprising amount of metal off of the rings, and that all just floats around in your oil. I would most certainly get that oil out of there and replace it.
Most people change their oil after firing the engine and letting it get to temp for the first time the engine is run, moving the idle around a lot. There will be quite a bit of metal in that first oil change. Go out and beat on it for 20 miles with lots of engine braking, change the oil. Continue with the aggressive driving and no long constant RPM's for about 500 miles, changing roughly at 50, 100 , 250 , 500.
Seems like cheap insurance to me.
Source : http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
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I'm in the process of building a shroud for my pusher fan and integrating that sprayer idea into it - I'll let you know how it works, though I think the shroud alone is gonna help alot.
Do you have room for a bigger radiator? z3m rads from mishimoto work quite well with getting rid of heat. Not so great with clearance though...
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Originally posted by GunMetalGrey View PostThat is scary that you are still on your initial oil. Rebuilt engines shave a surprising amount of metal off of the rings, and that all just floats around in your oil. I would most certainly get that oil out of there and replace it.
Most people change their oil after firing the engine and letting it get to temp for the first time the engine is run, moving the idle around a lot. There will be quite a bit of metal in that first oil change. Go out and beat on it for 20 miles with lots of engine braking, change the oil. Continue with the aggressive driving and no long constant RPM's for about 500 miles, changing roughly at 50, 100 , 250 , 500.
Seems like cheap insurance to me.
Source : http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Originally posted by jalopi View PostI'm in the process of building a shroud for my pusher fan and integrating that sprayer idea into it - I'll let you know how it works, though I think the shroud alone is gonna help alot.
Do you have room for a bigger radiator? z3m rads from mishimoto work quite well with getting rid of heat. Not so great with clearance though...
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Hrm. I'll post a pic of the shroud I make then. 100% it's gonna be ugly as fuck (maybe not, but it'll at least look all Frankenstein'd up, don't have any pieces big enough to make it out of 1 piece of sheet metal) but I expect it'll at least do its job just fine.
So a mishi e36 rad won't work? The core should be roughly the same thickness as the e28 core. The big difference is the cores though - from what I understand those "round tube" style radiators are real old school and nowhere near as efficient as the "flat tube" style modern cores.Last edited by jalopi; 08-22-2014, 11:46 AM.
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Originally posted by jalopi View PostHrm. I'll post a pic of the shroud I make then. 100% it's gonna be ugly as fuck (maybe not, but it'll at least look all Frankenstein'd up, don't have any pieces big enough to make it out of 1 piece of sheet metal) but I expect it'll at least do its job just fine.
So a mishi e36 rad won't work? The core should be roughly the same thickness as the e28 core. The big difference is the cores though - from what I understand those "round tube" style radiators are real old school and nowhere near as efficient as the "flat tube" style modern cores.
as long as it works though.
I cant really go back to a e36/e30 rad because I had to chop frame brackets to fit the E28 radiator because its a much taller unit.
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I made my own brackets that raised it and used rubber bushings for sound deadening. Raised it above the rad support and then welded my own brackets in and drilled and tapped it to hold.
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here is some pics of the cooling system.
fan is in the center now
IMG_1162 by kamotors@y, on Flickr
radiator
IMG_1159 by kamotors@y, on Flickr
huge gap I need to fill
IMG_1156 by kamotors@y, on Flickr
E28 hoses fit much better than e34 hoses
IMG_1154 by kamotors@y, on Flickr
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Looks just about how my e36 mishimoto sits
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