Whats the part number for that? Mine was cut and spliced like yours I want to replace it.
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SNAFU; high performance 318is build that lives up to the name, Turbo M42 ➞ Turbo M20
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Originally posted by Staszek View PostWhats the part number for that? Mine was cut and spliced like yours I want to replace it.
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I have a jug of Ospho, I've never heard of Fertan but at a safety data sheet level they look like similar products (phosphoric acid based, 2H3PO4 + Fe2O3 → 2FePO4 + 3H2O). I've been using Ospho on hardware and the roof rust spots. I'll probably pull the battery out next week and if the rust is through apply from the inside out then cover the treated surface in paint. As for the rust flakes about to come off on the outside, not sure what the best course of action is yet, spray ospho in there and leave them or chip them off, wire brush and ospho what is underneath and paint over it. I guess it depends on how much metal appears to be left because I don't want to leave a hole there.
Ignition switch is part number 61-32-1-374-967 for anyone else who might want to know.Last edited by varg; 05-03-2020, 05:39 AM.
IG @turbovarg
'91 318is, M20 turbo
[CoTM: 4-18]
'94 525iT slicktop, M50B30 + S362SX-E, 600WHP DD or bust - updated 3-17
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Originally posted by varg View PostI have a jug of Ospho, I've never heard of Fertan but at a safety data sheet level they look like similar products (phosphoric acid based, 2H3PO4 + Fe2O3 → 2FePO4 + 3H2O). I've been using Ospho on hardware and the roof rust spots. I'll probably pull the battery out next week and if the rust is through apply from the inside out then cover the treated surface in paint. As for the rust flakes about to come off on the outside, not sure what the best course of action is yet, spray ospho in there and leave them or chip them off, wire brush and ospho what is underneath and paint over it. I guess it depends on how much metal appears to be left because I don't want to leave a hole there.
Ignition switch is part number 61-32-1-374-967 for anyone else who might want to know.
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Fixed my broken wideband gauge/controller today. Many of the segments on the display had stopped working, and it was blue which I always hated. So I sourced some similar displays which are red, de-soldered the old one and replaced it. I also put a heatsink on both the 5V regulator and the heater control MOSFET because the gauge would overheat and reset repeatedly if the car was hot. It'll probably still happen but it will cool down faster with heat sinks.
IG @turbovarg
'91 318is, M20 turbo
[CoTM: 4-18]
'94 525iT slicktop, M50B30 + S362SX-E, 600WHP DD or bust - updated 3-17
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I finally got new tires (Proxes R1R) and a good alignment done. I had been putting it off with the pandemic going on, was stuck at home a lot and sparsely employed. 2020 has been a trip. Next up is a head swap so I can fix the broken stud afflicted one at my leisure and getting the manifold flanges machined flat. The exhaust leak tick when the car is cold drives me frigging nuts and it has to be hurting my boost response.
IG @turbovarg
'91 318is, M20 turbo
[CoTM: 4-18]
'94 525iT slicktop, M50B30 + S362SX-E, 600WHP DD or bust - updated 3-17
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Nice to see an update. I imagine those 225's are grippier than my 245 T1Rs by a fair margin.
Any chance you have a link to that 7 segment replacement? Similar blue gauge problem here lolOriginally posted by priapismMy girl don't know shit, but she bakes a mean cupcake.Originally posted by shamesonUsually it's best not to know how much money you have into your e30
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Yeah they're 225/45/16 tires.
Originally posted by Northern View PostNice to see an update. I imagine those 225's are grippier than my 245 T1Rs by a fair margin.
Any chance you have a link to that 7 segment replacement? Similar blue gauge problem here lol
IG @turbovarg
'91 318is, M20 turbo
[CoTM: 4-18]
'94 525iT slicktop, M50B30 + S362SX-E, 600WHP DD or bust - updated 3-17
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