SNAFU; high performance 318is build that lives up to the name, Turbo M42 ➞ Turbo M20

[Staszek]

Whats the part number for that? Mine was cut and spliced like yours I want to replace it.

[Staszek]

Whats the part number for that? Mine was cut and spliced like yours I want to replace it.

Nevermind I think I got it.

[econti]

Slap some good rust converter on it at least, cover everything liberally and it should be OK for the time being. I use a brand called Fertan which works really fast and is seemingly permanent.

[varg]

I have a jug of Ospho, I've never heard of Fertan but at a safety data sheet level they look like similar products (phosphoric acid based, 2H₃PO₄ + Fe₂O₃ → 2FePO₄ + 3H₂O). I've been using Ospho on hardware and the roof rust spots. I'll probably pull the battery out next week and if the rust is through apply from the inside out then cover the treated surface in paint. As for the rust flakes about to come off on the outside, not sure what the best course of action is yet, spray ospho in there and leave them or chip them off, wire brush and ospho what is underneath and paint over it. I guess it depends on how much metal appears to be left because I don't want to leave a hole there.

Ignition switch is part number 61-32-1-374-967 for anyone else who might want to know.

[luckybk]

situation normal...

[Staszek]

I have a jug of Ospho, I've never heard of Fertan but at a safety data sheet level they look like similar products (phosphoric acid based, 2H₃PO₄ + Fe₂O₃ → 2FePO₄ + 3H₂O). I've been using Ospho on hardware and the roof rust spots. I'll probably pull the battery out next week and if the rust is through apply from the inside out then cover the treated surface in paint. As for the rust flakes about to come off on the outside, not sure what the best course of action is yet, spray ospho in there and leave them or chip them off, wire brush and ospho what is underneath and paint over it. I guess it depends on how much metal appears to be left because I don't want to leave a hole there.

Ignition switch is part number 61-32-1-374-967 for anyone else who might want to know.

I used Opsho before one other cars it works well. Turned everything hardened black then I POR and painted.

[ForcedFirebird]

Corroseal is another good converter, but it does leave a coating.

[Digitalwave]

I think you'd be hard pressed to find any E30 that truly has truly had 0 rust, ever. Par for the course with their age. Do what you can now to prevent it from getting any worse, and a full repair can wait for later days.

[varg]

Fixed my broken wideband gauge/controller today. Many of the segments on the display had stopped working, and it was blue which I always hated. So I sourced some similar displays which are red, de-soldered the old one and replaced it. I also put a heatsink on both the 5V regulator and the heater control MOSFET because the gauge would overheat and reset repeatedly if the car was hot. It'll probably still happen but it will cool down faster with heat sinks.

[varg]

I finally got new tires (Proxes R1R) and a good alignment done. I had been putting it off with the pandemic going on, was stuck at home a lot and sparsely employed. 2020 has been a trip. Next up is a head swap so I can fix the broken stud afflicted one at my leisure and getting the manifold flanges machined flat. The exhaust leak tick when the car is cold drives me frigging nuts and it has to be hurting my boost response.

[Northern]

Nice to see an update. I imagine those 225's are grippier than my 245 T1Rs by a fair margin.

Any chance you have a link to that 7 segment replacement? Similar blue gauge problem here lol

[TeXJ]

what size are those tires? I cant read it at all lol

Trying to see what size I can go to with mine.

[2mAn]

Im guessing 225/45/16

[TeXJ]

Im guessing 225/45/16

thanks!

[varg]

Yeah they're 225/45/16 tires.

Nice to see an update. I imagine those 225's are grippier than my 245 T1Rs by a fair margin.

Any chance you have a link to that 7 segment replacement? Similar blue gauge problem here lol

The question is will it be useful to you? If you don't have the same exact unit it might not. Common cathode vs common anode, pitch, digit size. It also didn't entirely work as a fix, the display works perfectly and looks nice compared to that awful blue, but the gauge still blinks out on me and overheats for no apparent reason. I'm going to be replacing it, likely with an AEM unit.