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the Black Spot... a euro bumper '87 325is with track mods

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    #91
    Nice work! Can't to see the new wheels

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      #92
      Ah the passenger side of the pan being covered in oil, I know that one too well. Replaced every damn seal and gasket in my engine when I took it out of the donor car and here it is a couple of years later and it's leaking like that too.

      IG @turbovarg
      '91 318is, M20 turbo
      [CoTM: 4-18]
      '94 525iT slicktop, M50B30 + S362SX-E, 600WHP DD or bust
      - updated 1-26

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        #93
        The other day I finally had the time to pull the trigger on a set of tires for the Style 5's. Since COVID-19 has everything locked down, I had to drop the wheels off in a damn near empty Firestone and call the desk to walk them through my needs.


        So I picked up some 205/50r15 Hankooks for a decent price to run as a street tire to save the stickies from daily duties:


        Installing these wheels is a bit more complicated then just pulling the track tires off and throwing these on. Because I converted e34 Style 5's to 4x100, a narrow "tuner lug" or "tuner nut" is required.


        I run the bimmerworld 40mm lug stud conversion. The recommendation for this wheel set up is to run tuner style lug bolts. That would mean I'd have to remove my lug stud conversion every time I'd want to run my Style 5's. I also can't run a standard stud without modifying it to fit within the Style 5 cap. So, here comes some math. My brother and I spent about 1 full hour pulling various measurements for the front and rear set ups.

        You can see here that I moved my 5mm spacer from the front ot the rear and am pulling a measurement of the total remaining thread from the spacer.


        We drew a diagram to break down each measurement:



        Based on the remaining thread after an 8mm and 5mm spacer front and rear respectfully, I had to remove 14mm and 19mm from the studs front/rear. I also removed 4mm from the top of the "tuner lug nut" so they'd fit inside of the Style 5 hub caps.
        Here you can see the Circuit Performance Tuner Key Acorn Lug Nuts that I modified. This nut is JUST small enough to fit inside the hole, which means it's absolutely crucial that I know the total length of the stud.


        So I cut 19mm total off the rear studs, cleaned up the thread ends and with the shortened lug nuts (no loss in thread depth, just key depth) I can successfully retain the lug stud conversion AND put the Style 5 hub caps on. I cut 14mm from the front studs, but I might go to 10mm spacers up front with proper hub extensions. But damn does it look good, here's a sneak peek:
        Paynemw
        1986 Toyota 4Runner SR5 - Sold!
        the ebb and flow of 325is ownership - In RVA
        1988 BMW 535is - RIP but my dream BMW

        Comment


          #94



          Here's a picture from a local spot in downtown Richmond, VA.









          You can barely see it, but since I'm rocking a cheap facelift iS lip, it doesn't go far enough down to interlock with the stock air duct work. High five to the person who guess what that building is in the background.



          You can see the e28 tool bin here and the dual LED trunk lights. I just merged the harness together since I'm running LEDs pulling a fraction of the Watts. You can also see the Plastidip from the PO that I'm slowing peeling off the window chrome.



          Clutch Pedal Stop & Grip Tape on the pedals #bcracecar
          You can also see the door harness has been removed. I removed the harness properly, not just cut.






          Trunk Light Quick Disconnect for Dual LED light setup.



          A full size spare, thank you Style 5. You can also see my legit battery tie down.



          This is an old HMMWV tool bag full of additional tools for the car. The other bag is from a set of MSA Peltors I rocked in AFG, which is full of random tie down stuff. The Shock mounts are an delhrin upgrade.



          I picked up these e34 Style 5's for 60 bucks. I had Ehrlich Wheel Works rebuild them, but it set me back TOO much. Don't get me wrong, amazing work by Paul, but financially I could have bought two sets of Ronals or one set of Euro Weaves.



          These Hellas are amazing for the 80 bucks I spent, and look perfect.



          I waxed the car for the first time for these pictures, and I realized that the hood was painted with what looks like a paint can. Whatever, it looks good 10 feet away.






          Another view of the door harness delete. You can see the manual window crank hole and fit. Don't forget the Z3 storage on the trans tunnel.
          Paynemw
          1986 Toyota 4Runner SR5 - Sold!
          the ebb and flow of 325is ownership - In RVA
          1988 BMW 535is - RIP but my dream BMW

          Comment


            #95
            This past week I headed to the rents house to take some time away from DC. While home I came across a couple e30's being parted out in the VA Beach area. One guy was cutting up an 88 auto sedan, so I ran down to see what he had. By the time I got there, he had cut the roof off, and removed the sub-frames. I was hoping to grab the diff if it was an LSD, and negotiate for the oil cooler even though he said he wanted to keep it. The diff wasn't marked, and the tab was broken off and both flanges spun in opposite directions. I couldn't leave without something in hand, so I negotiated to snag the oil cooler & lines, and the strut housings and brakes.



            It took a bit of work, but I got them all cleaned up. I'm hoping to either sell these or build a set of coil overs with them.



            I have been hunting for guidance on a proper suspension setup and I'm hoping I can fix the variety of options that come with a coil over design.

            I also got some decent Girling brakes. I heard a while back about either Girlings being sought after or ATEs... well come to find out, I have ATEs (the better brakes) on my e30 currently, but hey, struts, brakes and an oil cooler for $80 is a deal.



            Also, after swapping to manual windows and pulling the door harness, the sunroof wasn't working and I thought it was because I pulled the breaker out, and I just hadn't had the time to put it back in. Well today I did the research and found out why. The Electronic Technical Manual somewhat reports that the breaker isn't responsible for the sunroof, but it's SLIGHTLY misleading.



            If you notice, both connections are male & femaie of the same style, which is the same as the power wire for sunroof. What I realized is that when I pulled the breaker set up, I didn't plug in the sunroof power wire into C302. All I had to do was plug in the sunroof C302 Q position and BOOM.



            Nothing else exciting going on with the car right now besides selling more old parts. I did find some AC o-rings and ordered the STIM TECH oil cooler housing AN line fittings, stoked to get the oil cooler set up worked.
            Last edited by paynemw; 06-14-2020, 08:42 PM.
            Paynemw
            1986 Toyota 4Runner SR5 - Sold!
            the ebb and flow of 325is ownership - In RVA
            1988 BMW 535is - RIP but my dream BMW

            Comment


              #96
              Car work has been slow and/or non-existent, thank you COVID & grad school. Anyways, a month ago I noticed a not so good thump that changed cadence as the speed of the car increased. I found out my relatively new center support bearing (CSB) was starting to tear. Well, it finally shit the bed. I went to replace it with a CSB that I thought was good to go, however, not all CSBs are created equal, AND the information I found online didn't give a quality description of the differences. Everyone knows that there was a relatively important update to the e30 chassis that occurred over the late summer of '87. I have an early '87 325is, so not only do I have a different fuel management system than other M20b25 cars, I have a different sized gas tank (which means different gauges and coding plugs in the dash, and OBC, and of course, it's a big bumper trim. It ALSO means that the CSBs are different. A good friend has a later big bumper '87 325i, but he believes he has smaller CSB tunnel.

              So, here's the CSB I bought:

              which is part number: 26121226723 (from 9/87)

              As you can see, it's not the right width for the tunnel (yes don't mind the red driveshaft, thank the PO).


              I also picked up some super trashed coupe/vert sport seats for FREE. I'll use these for parts or a rebuild with some sweet cloth down the road.


              I also got my Stim Tech oil cooler AN line fitting set. The red ones in the background are a cheap set of weld-on AN fittings for a stock e30 oil cooler. I'm getting a bunch of hate, but I'm broke, so pinching where I can.


              threw some oil on the o-rings and tightened them down. Can't wait to get this back on the m20 and get my oil filter oriented away from the headers.


              The car is running fine, but still on the hunt for a quality set of 10mm spacers with a hub ring.
              Paynemw
              1986 Toyota 4Runner SR5 - Sold!
              the ebb and flow of 325is ownership - In RVA
              1988 BMW 535is - RIP but my dream BMW

              Comment


                #97
                Those adapter fittings are nice- I wish there were other bolt-on cooler options outside of the overpriced CSF unit.

                I run the Motorsport Hardware tracklite 10mm hubcentric spacers on Linda. They’re quite nice, and the price isn’t too painful. IIRC if you email him he also offers an R3V discount.
                1990 Brilliantrot 325iS Build Thread
                1989 Zinnoberrot M3 Build Thread

                Comment


                  #98
                  I had some free time and a weekend with the car at my parents so I decided to get after the CSB. While there weren't any pictures of the work, I'll add a few points. I clearly have an early G260 from a M20b27, it has a large guibo. Does anyone know if the M20b25 G260 and the M20b27 G260 have different gear ratios?

                  The trans is leaking, but not from the rear main flange (maybe the gear selector). The rear Universal joint (at the diff) on the driveshaft is completely shot. The driveshaft might be out of balance (ever so slightly) even though I lined up the front and rear based on the markings (after pulling it apart).

                  While I was under the car, I decided it was time to adjust the sway bars, and I'm glad I did. The aftermarket swaybar end links needed some adjustment, and they were loose.

                  The fronts were just as bad. I cleaned up the everything on all sets, cleaned the threads. I put some copper anti-seize on all of the threads. I do need to adjust the rear a bit more.

                  Also, even though my cluster has been completely rebuilt, the green lights in the service indicator never worked, now I have the yellow light on. Anyone know how to reset the service system?

                  And yes I am a turd, I have a little ///M sticker because that's the only thing I could find to cover the CHECK light.

                  Overall, the car is fine, I'm really looking forward to getting rid of the exhaust, but I've reigned in the wallet for a while.
                  Last edited by paynemw; 10-07-2020, 08:50 AM.
                  Paynemw
                  1986 Toyota 4Runner SR5 - Sold!
                  the ebb and flow of 325is ownership - In RVA
                  1988 BMW 535is - RIP but my dream BMW

                  Comment


                    #99
                    Nothing terribly exciting has happened to the black spot in a while. I did however get some small stuff knocked out.

                    I snagged some Heyco LTBP 1000 plugs HEYCo-moldedâ„¢ Liquid Tight Break-Thru Plugs that I found on Alble325's gorgeous 325e build.

                    I also snagged an extra OEM jack and finally squared away my spacer issue, so I can rotate my wheels... I got snagged Motorsport Hardware Tracklite hub-centric spacers... they are quality. Thanks for the recommendation AWDBOB.


                    You can see they fit perfectly over the hub, and they are VERY well designed at first glance.
                    Paynemw
                    1986 Toyota 4Runner SR5 - Sold!
                    the ebb and flow of 325is ownership - In RVA
                    1988 BMW 535is - RIP but my dream BMW

                    Comment


                      I've been experiencing some really loud whining from the rear end, so it's time to get after a diff rebuild.


                      I need some help ID'ing the correct parts to properly rebuild the diff.

                      Here's the parts I think I'll need to get after a rebuild:
                      Drive Flange O-Ring PN 33111214144
                      Differential Cover Gasket PN 33111210405
                      Securing Plate for Differential Flange Nut PN 23211490120
                      Differential Pinion Seal PN 33101214099
                      Pinion Tapered Roller Bearing PN 3121203616
                      Pinion Shaft Seal PN 33101214099
                      Flange Tapered Roller Bearing PN 33131204568
                      Differential Flange O-Ring PN 33111214144
                      Flange Shaft Seal PN 33107505602
                      OEM Clutches (I could only find them at bimmerworld...)

                      I also found that diffsonline has a decent rebuild kit listed for $800 which is crazy...
                      and apparently here in Denver a LSD off the street goes for $600 so I believe it's more intelligent to rebuild my 3.73 LSD instead of rolling the dice on another.
                      I'm referencing realOEM for my '87 325is and I believe I have everything...

                      I haven't had much luck finding much online as it pertains to a solid LSD Differential Rebuild "kit" or how to.

                      Also, who can help me understand if I can easily increase my lockup. Is that by going to 3 clutches vs 2?

                      I also have been reading through this post on e30performance.info site about rebuilding diffs and found it to be pretty accurate.
                      Last edited by paynemw; 02-10-2021, 07:29 PM.
                      Paynemw
                      1986 Toyota 4Runner SR5 - Sold!
                      the ebb and flow of 325is ownership - In RVA
                      1988 BMW 535is - RIP but my dream BMW

                      Comment


                        If you dig in the E21 parts catalog I think you can find the clutches there. And, while in there you could swap in another clutch disk and thin plate in place of the thick spacers. I think though the clutches from BW are upgraded.

                        Looking good, Hope to see it at The Vintage this year! Fingers crossed.

                        I was up above it, Now I'm down in it ~ Entropy - A Build thread.
                        @Zakspeed_US

                        Comment


                          Originally posted by paynemw View Post
                          [Diff stuff]
                          Going from 2->3 clutches should just be removing a spacer and adding another clutch/dog plate. Going to 4 requires meat to be removed from the carrier cap or an aftermarket cap from racing diffs or someone.

                          You can find the BMW diff TIS online, I think Pazi88's recent E39 LSD youtube video has a link to it if you can't find it elsewhere?

                          I'm starting to tackle this soon to make a 4 clutch 2.93 to pair with my ZF trans.
                          I don't know if I have all the pieces of the puzzle, but for the rebuild side of it, so far I have:
                          • front/rear pinion bearings/races (Either SKF or Timken from Rockauto)
                          • side cover bearings/races
                          • 33101210518 Gasket seal/cover kit. Seems to have 3 bearing seals, cover seal (x2? maybe different fitment), output orings, axle clips, speed sensor oring, drain/fill plug washers. Doesn't have the metal dust covers though.
                          • 2x 33121744368 crush sleeves for the pinion if I fuck up the first time.

                          For the SI reset:
                          Originally posted by priapism
                          My girl don't know shit, but she bakes a mean cupcake.
                          Originally posted by shameson
                          Usually it's best not to know how much money you have into your e30

                          Comment


                            Ok, so while I've been researching parts and options, I did some part trading with the guys at Denver Beer & Oil to snag a open diff to use in the mean time, while I get the 3.73 LSD rebuilt.

                            Just cleaning it up. It was 10 degrees F today in Denver.... hands were so damn cold cleaning this thing outside.

                            that's an "E" stamped on the top. this is an e28 medium case diff, not sure why it has "E"

                            It's an open 3.25, but not sure what "2342" stands for... but I'll get this nasty thing cleaned up and get the e30 diff cover cleaned up, just gotta snag two of the longer bolts for the ear side, which are BMW PN 07119921541 which is a M10x75-8.8 ZN bolt.



                            Ok, moving onto other things I've learned from posting on the Facebook R3vlimited group.
                            Some people say that you can go from 2 OEM BMW clutches and 2 OEM BMW dog ears to 3 (respectfully). This doesn't increase the lockup rate, but apparently increases the speed to lockup.

                            I've also read that you can transition from 2 OEM BMW clutches/dogears to 2 or 3 OEM Porsche 944 clutches and dog ears, but that potentially requires machining.

                            I understand the OEM BMW clutch is 1.9mm in width, whereas the Porsche 944 clutch is 2.1mm.

                            I've also been told: "If you stay 2 clutch there are 2 dog ear plates that you can flip over to use the other side as the friction surface instead of replacing them. To add the third clutch you remove one spacer ring and add one more clutch and one more dog ear plate."

                            So am I going to be removing the spacer rings that are external to the flange (BMW PN 33139065734 or BMW PN 33139065735) or is there another partnumber associated with spacers inside of the LSD that isn't shown on realoem?

                            Also, I moved to Colorado... so no Vintage....
                            Originally posted by moatilliatta View Post
                            Looking good, Hope to see it at The Vintage this year! Fingers crossed.
                            Last edited by paynemw; 02-12-2021, 03:39 PM.
                            Paynemw
                            1986 Toyota 4Runner SR5 - Sold!
                            the ebb and flow of 325is ownership - In RVA
                            1988 BMW 535is - RIP but my dream BMW

                            Comment


                              Originally posted by paynemw View Post
                              My brother took the whip out early the other day to snag some new photos to keep me motivated.



                              I'm hoping to scrape enough money together to put tires on the Style 5s, buy tuner lugs, get the right size hub rings and do a tune up for the Vintage. Keep your fingers crossed.
                              Really clean build!

                              I guess you went from the aftermarket wheels to the oem ones, and i'm doing the exact opposite
                              Do you remember how bad the poke was on those rotas with the 5mm spacers to clear the caliper on the front?

                              Really like the look, but in my country, if the wheel pokes out too much from the body I'm screwed

                              Thanks!

                              Comment


                                Originally posted by miguelpppires View Post
                                I guess you went from the aftermarket wheels to the oem ones, and i'm doing the exact opposite
                                Do you remember how bad the poke was on those rotas with the 5mm spacers to clear the caliper on the front?
                                I keep the rotas purely for track use now. I still have them in the garage with the stickies. If I were to do it again, I would be Style 5 Euro weaves as my street set up and keep rotas for track use. The Rota rim sticks out at least 1 inch beyond the fender, however, I stretched the tire a smidge so it looks like the wheel doesn't protrude.


                                What country?
                                Paynemw
                                1986 Toyota 4Runner SR5 - Sold!
                                the ebb and flow of 325is ownership - In RVA
                                1988 BMW 535is - RIP but my dream BMW

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