Nonsense Thread

[econti]

I wasn't aware that N55s had rod bearing issues?

Lack of maintenance or heavy track use will cause it, never heard of the oil priming thing being an issue I think that's made up internet diagnosis talk. From memory the S55 sump has baffles and bolts on and mitigates the starvation problems at the track. Accusumps are cheap too

[McGyver]

Just get some r134 shrader valves and fill it lol

That's a cheap "conversion"

Been running mine like that for 10 years almost and its still ice cold.

Really the only thing worth changing is the condenser to a parallel flow, but if its not getting above 90 degrees you wont really notice.

My system has likely been dry for 10 years, so I'd worry about the o-rings being dried out. My understanding is that r134a molecules are smaller than r12 molecules, so they'll leak out of the old lines no matter what. I suppose I could start by pulling vacuum on the system to see if it holds, and then go from there.

Then again, we do get some really hot days above 100F. The other day it was 85F, but I saw 100F when sitting still in traffic. I'll probably still go for the whole conversion just to get nice cold AC that I can trust. I want to be able to drive this car regularly.

Also about the rod bearing shid, I've never heard of n55s needing that like s65 and s85s.

I don't think those n55s r3v up high enough to wear them that way.

You can always send oil out for analysis to check for wear

I did a Blackstone analysis a while ago and it came back fine. There must be million cars out there with an n55, and you don't see/hear them constantly spinning a bearing. Its probably just hyped up from a few examples of cars that were tracked or poorly maintained.

From what I've heard, the n55 components can't be machined to be rebuilt once a bearing spins. So you'd need a new crank and rods. That sounds a little fishy to me, but that fear is the biggest driver of wanting to avoid bearing problems.

[econti]

Sold my E39, going to look at a S1 325 vert this weekend. Haven't had a S1 or a vert or a M20 before, what notable stuff should I look for? They rust bad I know that, timing belt neglect, what else?

[MrBurgundy]

m20s are pretty solid.

Basically look at the timing belt history. Open the oil cap and coolant rez and see what it looks like in there.

See how she runs and what temp it runs at.

[McGyver]

Sold my E39, going to look at a S1 325 vert this weekend. Haven't had a S1 or a vert or a M20 before, what notable stuff should I look for? They rust bad I know that, timing belt neglect, what else?

What's an S1? An early model?

[DEV0 E30]

I’m guessing it is for sure that, series 1 aka early.

Other places calling things other things always interests me.

[MrBurgundy]

I’m guessing it is for sure that, series 1 aka early.

Other places calling things other things always interests me.

"car park" is the worst one

Are the cars going on the swings or what

[varg]

Sold my E39, going to look at a S1 325 vert this weekend. Haven't had a S1 or a vert or a M20 before, what notable stuff should I look for? They rust bad I know that, timing belt neglect, what else?

I hear tops are expensive, and in AUS your UV problem is probably as bad as or worse than it is here, so the seals, rear window, and top, may be on borrowed time if the car wasn't garaged for its entire life.

[MrBurgundy]

Best way to preserve a top is to keep it down

[econti]

Against better judgement I bought it. 104,000km on the odo. Doesn't run, but tries, sounds like fuel issue. No timing belt records either so that's on the list. Basically rust free though which is nice. I'll dig into it tomorrow

[2mAn]

Against better judgement I bought it. 104,000km on the odo. Doesn't run, but tries, sounds like fuel issue. No timing belt records either so that's on the list. Basically rust free though which is nice. I'll dig into it tomorrow

I’ll be expecting a new thread in the members rides