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New booster option for e30 - Bosch iBooster

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    #46
    Just stumbled upon this. Anyone know anything about them or if there is a chance it could work??
    1989 325i LS Swap (Money Pit):https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=244933
    COTM Feb 2019: https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=428404

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      #47
      It looks like the firewall pattern is wrong (too narrow, or too tall - the E30's is square). Mostly, that electric motor looks tiny, it's hard to tell if it would be as effective. It's cheap though!
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      Bimmerlabs

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        #48
        Yeah you would probably have to make a custom adapter plate but that booster looks enticing. I haven't seen anyone running them though
        1989 325i LS Swap (Money Pit):https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=244933
        COTM Feb 2019: https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=428404

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          #49
          Originally posted by Pootis View Post
          Yeah you would probably have to make a custom adapter plate but that booster looks enticing. I haven't seen anyone running them though
          That firewall plate looks like it unbolts from the master. Shouldn't be hard to adapt if that's the case. Now you've got me wanting to order and try it since its dirt cheap!

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            #50
            I'm not not sure it's remotely equivalent to the bosch booster- it has a tiny little electric motor on it and no visible gearbox.

            if you want to mess around with adapter plates, the Gen1 iBooster for the 2017-2020 CR-V are about $200. It's basically identical to the Tesla booster - except maybe programming, but we're using it in fail safe mode anyway.
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            Bimmerlabs

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              #51
              That Toyota part is a component in a much more complicated system.

              Click image for larger version

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                #52
                yeah, I was looking on ebay and found some other parts of that. definitely not the same thing. there's another system used on some Hondas that's sort of like the Toyota one.
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                Bimmerlabs

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                  #53
                  Yeah that is not viable. So who is going to be the first to try to fit the i booster with the sikky kit? Asking for a friend
                  1989 325i LS Swap (Money Pit):https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=244933
                  COTM Feb 2019: https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=428404

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                    #54
                    Originally posted by Pootis View Post
                    Yeah that is not viable. So who is going to be the first to try to fit the i booster with the sikky kit? Asking for a friend
                    RHD Tesla model S booster is on its way to me, and I have the full sikky kit... all I'd need is an engine. Too bad I'm selling it. :]

                    But then again I'd prefer an N52.

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                      #55
                      Nice, did you score one of the ones on Ebay? I have the funds in my PP to pick one up, but I've been trying to wait for the "right" one, and I need to do some work to the X5 before anything happens on the E30 anyway. Swapping out the booster would be a pretty nice winter project though!
                      Build thread

                      Bimmerlabs

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                        #56
                        Originally posted by Bored View Post

                        RHD Tesla model S booster is on its way to me, and I have the full sikky kit... all I'd need is an engine. Too bad I'm selling it. :]

                        But then again I'd prefer an N52.
                        One of your friends has to have a 5.3 or something you can borrow
                        1989 325i LS Swap (Money Pit):https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=244933
                        COTM Feb 2019: https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=428404

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                          #57
                          Originally posted by hoveringuy View Post
                          I just got to try it. Compared to my current brakes, it feels much smoother. No delay.
                          it feels like when you're riding a nice e-bike, it doesn't feel like the motor is helping but you just have a lot of wind at your back.
                          The true test will be if it feels uncommunicative or overboosted on the road
                          so I just put in a bid on a LHD one, just because the RHD versions are so much more expensive, shipping is an extra $100, and none of them have connectors included.

                          What did you end up doing with the brake fittings? bend the lines to the other side with adapters, drill and tap/plug the original openings, etc?
                          Build thread

                          Bimmerlabs

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                            #58
                            hoveringuy means he was pushing the pedal on mine in the driveway.



                            These guys appear to make the right adapter. I have a set and will be testing them soon (but with a RHD master because of my intake manifold).

                            I have no idea what condition the calipers are in on my parts car... I don’t know if it’s worth plumbing it’s up other than to check the adapter.

                            Honestly if my parts car wasn’t blocking my driver in the garage I probably would have installed it on the driver (the head gasket would hold up for a trip around the block).

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                              #59
                              yeah, I suppose I could always pick up a RHD MC later. I was thinking the idea of drilling and tapping the left hand side wouldn't be so difficult - just need a brass fitting with the right female end for the E30 lines. It doesn't look like it would clear the 3-stage installed on the right side, although I could still put it in right now as it would clear the M20 manifold by a mile.
                              Build thread

                              Bimmerlabs

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                                #60
                                Unless the MC is rebuildable, drilling isn’t an option. I have a spare MC I’ll try and disassemble to see what’s going on inside, but if you have to drill into the bite it’ll have to be rehoned to clean it up... and if you don’t you’ll still have to have it totally disassembled to clean after drilling.

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