Rerouted catch can plumbing a bit. Now both valve cover ports go to the inlet, the outlet runs across the trans and wraps around to the PCV at the water pump housing. Finished street tuning cam angles 0-50. Vtec tables next!
From rags to riches - the junkyard dog. 325iS rebuild + k swap!
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Been street tuning and there's a nice puddle of oil under the car now. I also noticed the water pump was pretty wobbly. So I resealed the chain case, replaced VTEC solenoid gasket, VTEC screen/filter gasket, resealed the oil pressure sensors and replaced the water pump. Probably will need to remote mount the oil pressure setup because I think the seals are failing from engine vibrations. Maybe I'll mount it by the catch can.
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New radiator fan setup from TFworks, feels like it really brings the whole bay together. Also working on a headlight retrofit from esgprints along with an experiment swapping the tails with some LEDs.
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Modified the check relay board to accommodate the low wattage LEDs. Followed the solution here from earthwormjim : https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/for...g-check-lights
Pretty sweet to have it working with the new bulbs! I had initially thought it didn't work, but turned out my check panel at the headliner was the issue - reflowed the pads on the board and all was well.
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Did you do any work to remove the driveline flange? I tried to get a socket on mine but couldn't get a great fit/grip on the nut. Curious if you have any tricks
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I didn't do a refresh or anything on it actually. If you need a custom sized thin wall socket, I've had luck with clamping my grinder in a vise and mounting the socket on a drill. Shave as necessaryComment
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Been driving with the 4.10 a bit, feel that it suits the swap well. Check out the video!
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Punished for driving the fun car to work today... alternator bolts backed out I guess. Lost the belt. Luckily sourced one locally and got some M8x60s from the hardware store. It's always something... loctite when I get home.
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She's so purdy.
Aside from engine swap woes.... still enjoying the kswap?Comment
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I had an M50 E30 that droned BAD, literally woke up deaf children once... resonator and looking at the setup of the exhaust might help. Mine was dual 2.5" and had a magnaflow muffler. I think it needed an crossover/xpipe or something.
This car is seriously giving me ... good/bad ideas for an 87is shell I just got back...👍 1Comment
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I had an M50 E30 that droned BAD, literally woke up deaf children once... resonator and looking at the setup of the exhaust might help. Mine was dual 2.5" and had a magnaflow muffler. I think it needed an crossover/xpipe or something.
This car is seriously giving me ... good/bad ideas for an 87is shell I just got back...
On this car it's the synchro design works 24v system. The resonator seems a bit narrow. Also I wouldn't be surprised if the two piece headers are leaking again #kpower quality.
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If you put a straight edge across the exhaust tips does that line extend out of the valance by an inch or two for both? They look close. When they terminate near the confines of a panel it can really bump the drone up since more sound finds its way into the cabin, my wagon resonated like crazy before I finished the exhaust with a tip that stuck out a bit. Two decently sized straight through mufflers seem to be the recipe for success with my turbo cars, so maybe a larger one will work for you, but NA is louder.Comment
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Lol sounds like there's a little more to that story.. I have a vibrant 2.5" resonator + muffler on my s50 swap and the sound is perfect. Little rumbly and gets loud when you want it, but drivable.
On this car it's the synchro design works 24v system. The resonator seems a bit narrow. Also I wouldn't be surprised if the two piece headers are leaking again #kpower quality.
And I second varg's comment - worth trying - if I remember correctly my tips may have been close to the panel/body which probably made the drone/noise/volume even worse.Comment
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