The Ecobeamer

[hkv]

Nice progress! Sent from my SM-G973U1 using Tapatalk

thanks man

[hkv]

drivers side motor mount is finished. it came out great and it fits even though everything is real tight in that area with the alternator steering rack and steering u joints all being there.

[hkv]

I originally had a different idea of the way to do the drivers side motor mount but I decided to just weld a new motor mount onto the subframe to keep things simple.








so heres the finished product all bolted up. fits great and it should clear everything despite it being real close.

[2mAn]

those welds look great ... excited to see this come together

[hkv]

those welds look great ... excited to see this come together

I appreciate that man. im super excited for the first start, I cant wait to hear the exhaust

[hkv]

im really happy with how the pedal fitment turned out. ive welded some of the mounts for the pedal box and the throttle mounting plate but I gonna weld a couple more pieces of angle iron in there.



master cylinders fit pretty good



this is the mounting plate I made for the throttle to mount too

[hkv]

so all the pedals can be bottomed out and the throttle is a couple inches behind the brakes which I like







heres the 2" steering wheel spacer









so i bolted up the stock seat and moved it as far back as it goes and it really was a good feeling that everything seems in the right place. even with that stock seat all the way back it was a couple inches too far forward but that was reflected in the steering wheel and pedals. when i bolt up my race seat i think the pedals and steering wheel will be in the perfect position. the shifter is pretty good but theres a chance it may be a tiny bit of a reach but i think it will be acceptable. no big deal because thats easy to fix. its fine right now though but well see when the seat is a bit lower and farther back. the important part is that the steering wheel and especially the pedals are in the right spot and im really happy that the are from what i can tell

[rzerob]

It looks like it is coming together nicely. The brake and accelerator pedals look a little farther apart than what would be ideal for heel toe. But that can easily be rectified with a wider pedal pad.

What are your gauges and instrument cluster plans?

[hkv]

It looks like it is coming together nicely. The brake and accelerator pedals look a little farther apart than what would be ideal for heel toe. But that can easily be rectified with a wider pedal pad.

What are your gauges and instrument cluster plans?

thanks Im really happy about how things are going.

that's a good observation, that was the big challenge of mounting the throttle was getting it in a decent spot without being angled to much from side to side and front to back. mainly because the steering column is in the way. but I think I got it in about the best spot possible. the wildwood pedals you can orient the pedal pad in different locations so let me show you how I set it up to try and remedy the distance.



so I think that with that pedal pad moved over ~0.5" that actually seems pretty good to me. a little testing out of heel and toe it seems good. when im on the brakes i can angle my heel over and blip the throttle. hopefully lol



the throttle is actually only .5-1" behind the brakes but i can always thread out the master cylinder rods to bring the clutch and brake pedal out more.






as far as gauges go im going to make a gauge panel out of some aluminum plate and drill all the gauge/switch/obd2 holes in it. im using autometer gauges and ive chosen: speed,rpm,volts,water temp,oil pressure, vacuum/boost pressure, fuel level, fuel pressure

[rzerob]

Wow. That looks perfect.

And you have a nice set of gauges.

Now you just need to seal up the driver side firewall and trans tunnel.

[hkv]

Wow. That looks perfect.

And you have a nice set of gauges.

Now you just need to seal up the driver side firewall and trans tunnel.

yea it really came out awesome, I had the pedal box and throttle positioned up in there with a bunch of zipties and string holding it in the right place so I could tack things up. it was a little iffy at first but everything came together good. and I like those autometer z series allot. thanks.

yeah pretty much but im actually gonna need the engine removed to do most of the drivers side firewall. so Im pretty much at the point where im ready to pull the motor again.

right now im thinking:
pull motor and intercooler and rad ect..> paint underside and engine bay> swap motors wiring harness and prep it for going into the car for good> motor back in car> bolt up rear subframe, diff, driveshaft> assemble suspension> work on wiring/gauges > build brake system/clutch hydraulics> little things here and there and then that should be most of the main things to get the car running and driving.

really not a ton left IMO unless I run into some unforeseen issue which is not farfetched. still a decent amount to get taken care of though

[hkv]

pulled the motor and all that, and I took the old wiring harness off the motor and put the new one on. also plugged all the unused coolant lines and vacuum ports. pic of the other side of the firewall



finished welding the pedal box frame up, its very very sturdy.



this drivers part of the firewall is very difficult and convoluted. im gonna get it as good as I can reasonably get it and then seal up the gaps with silicone and or great stuff or something. have to have bends for the intake manifold and the starter.



also worked on the fuel cell firewall and the cover for the fuel pump and lines



also got around to welding the o2 bung

[moatilliatta]

Check out 3m seam sealer, it’s kinda made for sealing up reasonable panels.

[hkv]

Check out 3m seam sealer, it’s kinda made for sealing up reasonable panels.

ok that's good because I found out that both silicone and great stuff would both be not the best choice for an automotive aplication

[LowR3V'in]

There's seam sealer you can get a autozone it works great for these types of stuff
it hardens super hard like the oem stuff. i used it after welding the rear subframe