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Finally I got my steering shaft solution installed. I truly hope that it works. Also some stoppers were required for the purple rack. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Has somebody else faced quality problems with the Garagistic camber/toe-kit? This simply does not work as the machined piece has wrong dimensions. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I hate to talk shit about any company that makes parts for our car but that seems like par for the course for ANY Garagistic part I've purchased. Its either a hair larger or smaller than the its supposed to be.
Could this be ok when using delrin bushings? I mean, how the eccentric adjustment would work when the bushings are almost solid. I try to find good sides from this issue. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I hate to talk shit about any company that makes parts for our car but that seems like par for the course for ANY Garagistic part I've purchased. Its either a hair larger or smaller than the its supposed to be.
My experience as well.
I like the company, but I feel they're too focused on coming up with new stuff, and have lost quality by growing so fast...
In meanwhile I purchased another set of camber plates and prepped the Z-axle to a jig for modifications. Left toe is slightly out and way too much camber at both side. 4-4.5 degrees. Camber plate placement must be done carefully. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You can correct camber/toe if you raise the height of the cross member in the chassis, too. Would have to read back at your cross member connection choice, but it may be as simple as raising it a few MM.
Those adjusters tend to move when on track, the ones with serrations hold better, but are limited on adjustment with the notches.
You can correct camber/toe if you raise the height of the cross member in the chassis, too. Would have to read back at your cross member connection choice, but it may be as simple as raising it a few MM. Those adjusters tend to move when on track, the ones with serrations hold better, but are limited on adjustment with the notches.
Yes you are absolutely correct! I purchased one serrated kit from Ebay, but the adjustment is way too coarse for toe-in. It has 3.5mm steps which is alot. And this kit missed one plate. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yes you are absolutely correct! I purchased one serrated kit from Ebay, but the adjustment is way too coarse for toe-in. It has 3.5mm steps which is alot. And this kit missed one plate. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You are using a jig and have the serrated adjusters, perhaps you could do all your camber/toe corrections using both the serrated adjusters and cross member height before you even get it in the car. When using the serrated adjusters, you can notch the cross member first, bolt them in place without welding so you can move them around, then tack, remove, final weld.
Also, side note, you may want to blur the address on your packages in public photos. Just read an article about new hackers using photos to get personal information. Your screen name "hasa" makes sense now.
Yes, I'll do something like this as soon I get the missing plate.
I have couple of goals for this modification
Get the toe & camber corrected
Fix the anti-geometries that are f..ked up when the car is heavily lowered
keep the roll center as much original as possible
So I will lift the mounting points as high I can without opening the rear passenger floor ( like done in DTM cars where rules maybe prevented rising higher ). I already have the 12mm riser subframe bushings on the place, but there is still way to go.
ForcedFirebird Thanks for the reminder about privacy... fortunately the address points to local freight pick up point.
OH man.. those are going to suck to tighten. Check out the IE serrated ones, every serration is about .25 degree adjustment, and they fit into slots so they are easy to tighten.
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