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  • MrBurgundy
    replied
    Originally posted by 2mAn
    New Year, same me... I love my Jetta & its been great on ALL costs... and yet, I am VERY tempted by something I just found that replace it as a DD and would be terrible on ALL costs...

    It would be very similar to 2016 again in the 2mAn household...
    The joy of owning a car terminally is something you'll never experience.

    I highly recommend it.

    Keep the turd

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  • roguetoaster
    replied
    Originally posted by 2mAn
    New Year, same me... I love my Jetta & its been great on ALL costs... and yet, I am VERY tempted by something I just found that replace it as a DD and would be terrible on ALL costs...

    It would be very similar to 2016 again in the 2mAn household...
    All you ever want to do is play with new double D's.

    Leave a comment:


  • 2mAn
    replied
    New Year, same me... I love my Jetta & its been great on ALL costs... and yet, I am VERY tempted by something I just found that replace it as a DD and would be terrible on ALL costs...

    It would be very similar to 2016 again in the 2mAn household...

    Leave a comment:


  • MrBurgundy
    replied
    You can also preheat with a torch

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  • Northern
    replied
    Yeah I think he only has 30A across 2 fuses in the garage, so I'm off a 15A plug and a 25ft extension cord (which at least is 12ga.)
    I as trying to get as much weld on the washer/stud as possible, basically do two passes around it, fill the nut all the way to the top, then tack it in 3 places to the washers around the perimeter (thinking I didn't want the weld to fail between washer and nut, but I guess it would be better if it failed there and I get the chance to put more heat into it by welding another nut onto it)

    I've heard/seen the crayon trick. I'll give it a shot this time.
    Hammer tap is a good call, I like that one.

    Leave a comment:


  • Panici
    replied
    Originally posted by Northern
    So I've always been shit at extracting snapped off bolts with the welder method...
    I snapped a head bolt on my D2 so I've been trying again using the washer+nut combo and still no dice.

    Anyone have any tips and tricks? I'm about to give up and try drilling it out.
    Weld with the thing cranked to full if it's only a 120v unit.
    Heck I usually crank up my 240v MIG unit when dealing with stuck/broken hardware. Get as much heat in there as possible.
    Fill the nut completely with weld.


    Before it cools down, get some wax (crayon, candle) in the threads. Penetrating fluid will just flash/smoke off so it's no help.

    Let it fully cool and contract before you try to loosen it. A few (vertical) taps with a hammer before you start trying to spin it out also doesn't hurt. Try to get some shock into the threads to free them up.

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  • Northern
    replied
    Yeah drilling bolts in general sucks, but once you yield/work harden them from install and then again snapping it off, it's going to be pretty crap to drill if it comes to that.

    I taped off the open engine with a garbage bag/duct tape, and threw a random piece of steel sheet over the adjacent cyl. Cleaned everything off with acetone first, but it's too cold for the tape to stick very well... it is what it is. Aluminum tape would at least be more rigid, so I'll give that a shot.
    I also should use a welding blanket instead of the garbage bag, but I find that I "save" the blankets because I only own two.
    I hate flux core, but using MIG just because it's 120v and easier... Realistically I'm decent with the MIG and pretty bad with TIG lol



    Happy New Year!

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  • varg
    replied
    Head bolts are usually pretty high strength hardware, hard to drill. I hope the weld method works. Smear some grease on areas you don't want weld splatter to stick to, cover the bores and other holes with aluminum tape (doesn't burn through when splatter lands on it), use MIG (learned that the hard way, too much porosity when all you have is flux core).

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  • MrBurgundy
    replied
    Godspeed

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  • Northern
    replied
    NAPA of all places was the easiest to order some 1/2" bare steel nuts/washers, so now I wait.

    If this doesn't work, drill baby drill.
    Last edited by Northern; 12-30-2025, 09:42 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • Northern
    replied
    Originally posted by MrBurgundy
    I use a bolt extraction kit.

    Essentially drilling into the broken bolt, and tapping in a tapered bit with counterclockwise gripping fins.

    I've never used a washer in that method.

    Straight to the nut.

    If the broken piece is very uneven, you're going to want to drill it down so you can center a hole with some accuracy or the drill is just going to run way to the wall of the hole.

    heat is going to be your best tool here. The welding trick is good one because you now have a hex head again and two the intense heat
    It's cold as shit (outdoors) so heating the block is hard. I also have to lug tools/welder/gas there with me, so that's not ideal either.

    I have like a drawer full of EZ-outs, but I find the best result is when you use the largest one that will fit inside the original stud, so a lot of drilling, and I'm scared to snap a bit/extractor off.(Welder also not super ideal for melting/spatter/fire potential)

    I think I'll buy a big bag of M12 (or whatever SAE equivalent) washers/nuts and spend a day continuing the welding before I give up.
    I think the washers help with the strength of the connection to the snapped stud. Seems to be stronger than I remember when I tried this last time without them.
    I had the best result when I wallowed out the washer hole a little bit, it took a few threads off the stud with it when it snapped, and the weld looked like it had better penetration. Hoping to buy M12 washers this time to emulate that...

    I think it's just very corroded, hoping it's only near the top so it comes out after it gets a few more heat cycles.

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  • 2mAn
    replied
    I’m about to deal with the same sh!t on the Elan… not looking forward to it

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  • roguetoaster
    replied
    Originally posted by mrburgundy
    straight to the nut.
    k

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  • MrBurgundy
    replied
    I use a bolt extraction kit.

    Essentially drilling into the broken bolt, and tapping in a tapered bit with counterclockwise gripping fins.

    I've never used a washer in that method.

    Straight to the nut.

    If the broken piece is very uneven, you're going to want to drill it down so you can center a hole with some accuracy or the drill is just going to run way to the wall of the hole.

    heat is going to be your best tool here. The welding trick is good one because you now have a hex head again and two the intense heat

    Leave a comment:


  • Northern
    replied
    So I've always been shit at extracting snapped off bolts with the welder method...
    I snapped a head bolt on my D2 so I've been trying again using the washer+nut combo and still no dice.

    Anyone have any tips and tricks? I'm about to give up and try drilling it out.

    Leave a comment:

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