Nonsense Thread
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It was 83° today and a bit humid, I was disappointed because I couldn't open my windows : (I don't know who else is far enough in the NE to get this bullshit weather, but goddamn it's cold today.
The back driver's door of the daily was frozen solid, so I gave up trying to open it.
When I got back into the car, it claimed that door was open, so I gave it a little pop and the warning went away.
I get to work and can't lock the car because it thinks it's open again... I don't want to pop it again because I figure the alarm will just go off whenever it decides it isn't closed again.
So I smack the trim to break the door free and open the door... But now it won't latch closed because the latch was frozen "open" since I first pulled the handle...
I cobble together a makeshift deicer sprayer from an old water bottle and some washer fluid, and punch a hole in the lid with a pen and start spraying inside the handle and inside the door latch, and work the latch with a stick/occasional door slam for the next 30 minutes until it finally unfreezes and latches. Walk into work 30 minutes late and without feeling in my fingers. Great start to the day.
Anyway, fuck that, it's the weekend now

The driver side back door on my wagon still doesn't open for some reason, no ice needed
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Everything needs an override, so you can simply tell the appliancemobile that one owns in theory, but not practice, to shut up and do what you told it to.🥰 1Leave a comment:
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I don't know who else is far enough in the NE to get this bullshit weather, but goddamn it's cold today.
The back driver's door of the daily was frozen solid, so I gave up trying to open it.
When I got back into the car, it claimed that door was open, so I gave it a little pop and the warning went away.
I get to work and can't lock the car because it thinks it's open again... I don't want to pop it again because I figure the alarm will just go off whenever it decides it isn't closed again.
So I smack the trim to break the door free and open the door... But now it won't latch closed because the latch was frozen "open" since I first pulled the handle...
I cobble together a makeshift deicer sprayer from an old water bottle and some washer fluid, and punch a hole in the lid with a pen and start spraying inside the handle and inside the door latch, and work the latch with a stick/occasional door slam for the next 30 minutes until it finally unfreezes and latches. Walk into work 30 minutes late and without feeling in my fingers. Great start to the day.
Anyway, fuck that, it's the weekend now
Last edited by Northern; 12-05-2025, 02:48 PM.😂 1Leave a comment:
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The f30 is out of commission until I can get a replacement upper rad hose. It seems like the compression clamp loosened up and I'm leaking a shitload of coolant, I'm actually super lucky it didn't blow off on the drive home last night. The Rein hose didn't even make it 4 years.
On the other hand, the e30 has about 1200 miles on it since I swapped on the crusty replacement head. Not a single (major) issue. Still weeping oil from the head gasket, might still be slowly losing coolant somewhere, and occasionally need to try twice to start it when it's hot. It's simultaneously surprising and as-expected that a 37 year old car just works. I mean, I keep up on maintenance, but it is still really old.👍 1Leave a comment:
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Yup, we still hereLeave a comment:
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100% for the stuff I cut away. The paint is some bullshit. Between all the super-duper-turbo-lowVOC paint that everyone has to use, and all these goofy tri-coat paint colours, it's a double-edged sword and it's hard to blame one side or the other.
I think this affects basically all industries too. At work, It's like every time I touch anything painted, the paint spec has been up-rev'd and I need to start a massive circlejerk of finding out if someone somewhere has already done the work, or if I need to figure out what can even be used.
I am done owning anything newer than what I have now. Either buying old shit that I can work on and keeping it forever, or leasing a tablet-on-wheels that I don't have to work on it at all.Leave a comment:
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I think more reliable, but when something does break, it's instantly $5k to do anything.I don't know, are new cars really less reliable?
I've got a 2014 335i and its been pretty much trouble-free. The 2nd gear syncro is dying, but that's not any different from the g260 in early e28s getting switched to a g265 for a year or two while Getrag beefed up the cheaper g260. Shit, didn't the e30 have a longer time limit on the timing belt until they started snapping and it was reduced?
Like my Volvo (I mean it's 2017 but they still sell the same shit, just with a bunch of hybrid bullshit and a bunch of switches/buttons enshittified) has needed very little since I bought it. Stuff that actually broke/wore out from my ownership at 130k-170k is like - one O2 sensor, PCV box(maybe was still good, who knows), plugs, rear caliper, pads&rotors.
But I also hear about the PHEV versions needing new electrical drive assemblies all the time, the non-PHEV hybrids needing motors/batteries, and the odd person blowing up a supercharger, turbo, downpipe, etc.
On the other hand, it will take virtually nothing to total one of these. The headlights alone are $4500 a pop with labour. I assume anything new is similar or worseLeave a comment:
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I imagine the energy that goes into building these cars is higher than ever, only to have a car with a shortened lifespan due to its complexity and non-repairable design. But at least it gets 30mpg to save the planet, right?
I don't think they're necessarily less reliable in the short term, I think many are likely to reach the point of beyond economical repair earlier than they used to. Like when the submerged oil pump belt fails and the engine seizes, the screen that controls everything in the car dies and they are NLA new and unobtanium used, the plastic tanked air to water intercooler leaks and rusts the bores or hydrolocks the engine, the CVT inevitably craps out, the turbo on the now depreciated car fails and parts+labor are as much as the car is worth, a sunroof leak kills a cluster of modules, a chunk of intake port carbon from neglected DI engine cleaning breaks off and causes valve to meet piston, that sort of thing. There are also the issues with modern car paint which seems to be as bad as it ever was and more expensive than ever to get re-done.
The difference is that before the 80s, we didn't know how to make a car that lasts. Now we do, we simply choose not to. And we could probably refine those 80s and 90s cars to last even longer with today's tech.varg, Yeah, that's kind of my point. It seems like new car warranties are longer than ever. New fit/finish is better than ever. Everything seems to just work out of the box. There is the potential for a single part to total the whole car, but I also feel like we got used to cars lasting longer and maybe that's just shortening again. I feel like 80s and 90s cars were common in the mid 2000s (~20ish years old), but there weren't many cars being daily driven from the 70s (~30 years old). It seems like 90s cars are still on the road (~30 years old), but cars from the 2000s and 2010s might get scrapped for some small failed part. To me, the longevity of 80s and 90s cars seems more like an outlier than the 10-20 year life of more modern cars.
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