E30 the biowaste - metamorphosis to M52

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  • digger
    R3V Elite
    • Nov 2005
    • 5910

    #76
    I don’t like the cheap looking pads on the IE
    89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

    new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

    Comment

    • moatilliatta
      R3V OG
      • Feb 2005
      • 6120

      #77
      I just know IE’s pads used to come off. Not sure if a bond issue or wiping the cam clean of oil. But usually would destroy a cam.

      I was up above it, Now I'm down in it ~ Entropy - A Build thread.
      @Zakspeed_US

      Comment

      • hasa
        Wrencher
        • May 2013
        • 278

        #78
        color scratched to reveal underlying pad area. OEM BMW rocker

        Last edited by hasa; 12-25-2021, 08:44 AM.

        Comment

        • hasa
          Wrencher
          • May 2013
          • 278

          #79
          Contact path with Febi rocker

          Comment

          • digger
            R3V Elite
            • Nov 2005
            • 5910

            #80
            Febi looks ok, oem not so much
            89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

            new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

            Comment

            • moatilliatta
              R3V OG
              • Feb 2005
              • 6120

              #81
              Is oem the ina branded units?

              You should give genuine ones a go.

              I was up above it, Now I'm down in it ~ Entropy - A Build thread.
              @Zakspeed_US

              Comment

              • hasa
                Wrencher
                • May 2013
                • 278

                #82
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                • hasa
                  Wrencher
                  • May 2013
                  • 278

                  #83
                  Engine runs nicely, responds very well to throttle with new light flywheel. But I hitted problems with clutch. Previously cluch disengaged very low, almost at level of gear grinding. Now it does not disengage at all no matter what I try.

                  So my conclusion is that the release bearing might be wrong for this combination. Engine has 528E bellhousing and unknown throwout bearing, very likely from E30 325i. Clutch is Sachs 618 and organic disc. Slightly stepped flywheel made for M20.

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                  • moatilliatta
                    R3V OG
                    • Feb 2005
                    • 6120

                    #84
                    There is are 2 different depths depending on DMF flywheel for gearbox's. Maybe try 323 TO bearing with single mass flywheel?
                    Last edited by moatilliatta; 06-08-2022, 10:34 AM.

                    I was up above it, Now I'm down in it ~ Entropy - A Build thread.
                    @Zakspeed_US

                    Comment

                    • hasa
                      Wrencher
                      • May 2013
                      • 278

                      #85
                      Yes this is my assumption. I found old thread from this forum explaining the problem. (30mm vs 25mm high bearing)

                      Comment

                      • hasa
                        Wrencher
                        • May 2013
                        • 278

                        #86
                        I lifted the boy out
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                        Then I found out serious installation error... fortunately clutch did not work, as this would have led to serious disaster.

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                        • hasa
                          Wrencher
                          • May 2013
                          • 278

                          #87
                          Clutch fork side profile looks odd, but I can't say if it's ok or not. I don't have any reference part. Throwout bearing was wrong version (25mm) as expected.

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                          • ForcedFirebird
                            R3V OG
                            • Feb 2007
                            • 8300

                            #88
                            With that revelation, you probably don't need the 323 bearing.

                            One time at a 14hr race we blew 2 clutches (a rental driver error, long story). The third that went in was a mis match of parts from two clutch kits. Clutch pedal was right on the floor.

                            When we got back home and replaced everything, we took all the parts and lined them up. What we found was there's different stack heights, as well as different thickness of the actual clutch disc. Some discs are ~8mm, some are closer to 6mm.

                            What we determined was there's washers under the big rivets on the pressure plate, as well as more/less spring stacks on the outside. So, if you have a thin disc and have the pressure plate with less washers, it doesn't take much to disengage.

                            After a lot of years battling these kinds of situations, I put two bolts on the bell housing after installing the new clutch kit. Then, install the slave and check mechanical viability. The output flange should turn by hand with the pedal in and in gear. Nothing worse than buttoning up completely,only to realize you have too much/little travel.

                            john@m20guru.com
                            Links:
                            Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

                            Comment

                            • ForcedFirebird
                              R3V OG
                              • Feb 2007
                              • 8300

                              #89
                              Also, just buy a new fork, pivot pin, and spring. They are about $70 for the lot and all three are a pain to get to if they fail.
                              john@m20guru.com
                              Links:
                              Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

                              Comment

                              • hasa
                                Wrencher
                                • May 2013
                                • 278

                                #90
                                Originally posted by ForcedFirebird
                                With that revelation, you probably don't need the 323 bearing.

                                One time at a 14hr race we blew 2 clutches (a rental driver error, long story). The third that went in was a mis match of parts from two clutch kits. Clutch pedal was right on the floor.

                                When we got back home and replaced everything, we took all the parts and lined them up. What we found was there's different stack heights, as well as different thickness of the actual clutch disc. Some discs are ~8mm, some are closer to 6mm.

                                What we determined was there's washers under the big rivets on the pressure plate, as well as more/less spring stacks on the outside. So, if you have a thin disc and have the pressure plate with less washers, it doesn't take much to disengage.

                                After a lot of years battling these kinds of situations, I put two bolts on the bell housing after installing the new clutch kit. Then, install the slave and check mechanical viability. The output flange should turn by hand with the pedal in and in gear. Nothing worse than buttoning up completely,only to realize you have too much/little travel.
                                I can imagine the pain of swapping parts during an endurance race !

                                By looking how the parts fit inside the bellhousing, I'd claim that even 30mm bearing does not solve completely the problem. Something else must be wrong. Fork is first suspect.

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