I love the sealed H1/H4 upgrade on early models
My Hoopte30 Project Attempt #6 - the painless way to earn cash back every day
Collapse
X
-
This is my first time using them- the car had H4s in the high beam spot when I got it so I just fixed the broken one without thinking about it.
I’m just now realizing that H4s are dual filament and thus make for a better low beam which is what I really want any way, so I’m going to swap the H4s over to the low beam spot in the mean time and see if I can get some cheaper Autopal H1s because hooptie budget.
Edit:
Remembered I randomly have a case of new H5001 high beams, this worked out perfectly! H4s are much better in the low beam spot.
Untitled by bimmertown, on Flickr
Untitled by bimmertown, on Flickr
Untitled by bimmertown, on Flickr
Last edited by AWDBOB; 06-24-2025, 03:43 PM.Comment
-
I'm running H1/H4s on my 318is and it is a great budget upgrade over the stock sealed-beam setup. I can actually see where I'm going on those late night/early morning drives!Comment
-
Especially considering what a nice set of projectors cost now and how many decent quality non-Hella H1/H4s are available, it's a solid setup for the money!Comment
-
Budget a/c is a fools errand, but I'm going for it
I bought a new high pressure hose for the seiki compressor, a new drier, expansion valve and parallel flow. A customer gave me a good used genuine r134 pressure switch a while back, and I had some other nicer hoses on hand as well as a curved blade fan and what seems to be a good compressor from a buyout.
I'm all in for sub $200 and sweat equity, but this could potentially transform the car.
Untitled by bimmertown, on Flickr
Untitled by bimmertown, on Flickr
Found a few new firewall rust holes during this process. Had to swap evaporator cores as well with a good used one.
Untitled by bimmertown, on Flickr
Amazon was late with my PAG oil so I had to call it for the evening, but tomorrow I'll pull a vacuum on it and hopefully we'll have a/c!
FCP order showed up and I put the new oil pressure switch on, she's almost done!Comment
-
Comment
-
We have a/c! Well, kind of. My gauges broke so I couldn't pull a vacuum on it before adding freon, so it's rather inefficient at the moment. Will evacuate and recharge down the road.
I installed a strut bar I've had hanging on the wall since 2016 and a leather mushroom knob to finish the black interior look.
Changed the oil, installed a new oil pressure sensor, mounted the fender liners and front lip more securely etc.
I really enjoy driving this thing. Will hold me over as a daily until I get the Xterra clutch hydraulics in from Nissan.
Untitled by bimmertown, on Flickr
Untitled by bimmertown, on Flickr
Comment
-
-
This car had one in it originally- I sold it to help fund the rest of the antics and put a cracked but still decent looking one in.
------
OG hooptie got a VR1/Wix break in oil change, and I installed a new oil pressure sensor while I was down there to avoid a future failure.
Got a Gates 9335 belt to replace the last continental that broke on me.
Put the hitch/bike rack on sedan hooptie so I can still ride while the xterra is down. Feels a bit twisty, may need a 3rd attachment point whenever it gets finished the correct way.
Bumper delete looks slightly less horrendous on an early car because I can keep the bumper trim on.
Untitled by bimmertown, on Flickr
Untitled by bimmertown, on Flickr
Untitled by bimmertown, on Flickr
Comment
-
On the Sanden converted car, yes. In my experience with the Sanden conversion, I can’t find the sweet spot in between belt slippage and belt breakage.
I believe two things are a factor here:
1) I used a “709” Sanden compressor instead of a “509” which takes more hp to run
2) The Sanden bracket doesn’t have a tensioner, so you’re limited on how you can adjust it, which also doesn’t allow you to gradually adjust from a tensioned position very easily to get it just right.
If I keep breaking belts like I have been I’m just going to buy a 509 in hopes that I can just have working a/c for a while instead of constantly fiddling with it.
-------
Took the ole bike hitch whip on its first highway outing and it bent pretty severely at normal highway speeds due to a lack of bracing/gussets on the main bar as well as from the bar to the actual receiver. Will have to resort to my roof bars and rocky mount until the daily is back.
Untitled by bimmertown, on Flickr
Last edited by AWDBOB; 06-30-2025, 06:47 PM.Comment
-
Might have to fab up an idler to increase the wrap on either the crank, compressor, or both?Originally posted by priapismMy girl don't know shit, but she bakes a mean cupcake.Originally posted by shamesonUsually it's best not to know how much money you have into your e30Comment
-
Do you have access to a welder? Grab a turnbuckle and a couple of pieces of threaded rod that fit it. Weld two curved pieces of round stock to the ends of the threaded rods then cut them to length and thread them into the turnbuckle, so it looks like )——≡≡≡——( . Tensioning tool, wind it in the whole way, place it between the pulleys, then expand it until the tension is just right and wind it in to remove it. A pain compared to a built in tensioner, but it would allow you to dial it in, tighten the compressor down, then remove the tool.Comment
-
You could ratchet strap your seat post to your front tow hook to keep the tension on the bike?
I have an E30 hitch, maybe just add a kuat rack?Comment
Comment